Sheila uses both precious and semi-precious stones throughout her jewellery designs, with each stone set-by-hand in our Orkney workshop. We carefully source gemstones for their quality and colour ensuring you receive the best quality stones. All of our gemstones are natural except for cubic zirconia, which are synthetic. Because gems can be cut by hand or machine, there is a variable level of quality. Small asymmetries are common, causing gems to tend to have lower value. Poor placement can cause facets to be off-count or have uneven meet points. While beauty is in the eye of the beholder, the deviations from standard cuts have names. There are generally three ways that gemstones are mined, although of course the size and scale of the mining operation varies significantly from mine to mine. There are substantial commercial mines with modern equipment and a large workforce right down to small artisanal miners, sometimes with as little as a single miner digging through their small claim with hand tools. Mines are found all over the world in many different countries, and certain countries are renowned for the quality of the stones they produce. Examples of this include Colombian Emerald, Sri Lankan Sapphire and Australian Opal. Tunnel Mining There are only four stones in the world classified as precious gemstones and we are proud to say we use them all in our jewellery and rings. The “Big Four” are: Diamond

This term describes gemstones with a brilliant, mirror-like appearance, like diamonds. Diamond and zircon have a gorgeous, sparkling luster known as an adamantine luster. Adamantine literally means’ diamond-like’. Ruby and Sapphire are sometimes described as having a “sub-adamantine” luster in some cases, though many are classified as vitreous. Again, the name gives it away. The facets are rectangular and ascend and descend in a series of treads, like a staircase. Picture the elongated emerald and baguette cuts. With fewer facets, the step gem cut’s allure is more about color and clarity than the way it glistens.Faceting: An even finer lap sculpts the gem as it rotates on a platform, creating the cut. This process changes how the gem is angled so that the surface becomes more reflective. A gemstone’s polish luster, or how it appears after polishing, can be very different from its base luster. For instance, polishing can turn jet, which has a dull or waxy base luster, into vitreous. There are many beautiful red gemstones, and Ruby is the king of them all. A deep, vibrant red with pink undertones makes this a must-have. Preforming: Your stone is cut from the gem with a circular saw and primed for precision. The pavilion (bottom of the gem) is mounted into a jewelry setting. An abrasive disk, called a lap, buffs out any bubbles or fractures. You now have your gemstone’s shape. Topaz is one of the world's most popular coloured gemstones. It's a hard gemstone with excellent clarity offering extremely good value for money. Sheila's designs use blue topaz of which there are three different types: Sky Topaz is a pale blue stone, Swiss Topaz is a mid bright blue and London Topaz is a darker blue. The bright Swiss Blue Topaz, reminiscent of a blue ocean, is the type used in our designs. If you like blue topaz Sheila has incorporated it in collections such as Reef Knot, and in her Tidal pendant and earrings. Peridot

Citrine varies in colour from yellow and gold through to orange-brown shades. They are the yellow variety of crystalline quartz and are the second most popular quartz after amethyst. Like amethyst, citrine is an affordable gemstone and is also available in larger sizes. This gemstone looks striking set in both silver and gold. Take a look at Sheila's Ogham cufflinks and Tidal pendant. Tourmaline The second and main section supplies complete descriptions of a wide range of gems, organized by chemical composition, for instance: While brilliant, step, and rose cuts are sort of the stencils used to produce faceted gems, a gem cutter can alter the number and arrangement of facets to update the look and play with your stone’s display. You can modify cuts for different effects. For example, the princess cut offers a sharp square take on the brilliant cut. You get more gem with the square shape. Final Thoughts Garnets are widely known as a deep red gem. The name “garnet” derives from “gernet”, which is old English for “dark red” and “granum”, the Latin for “grain or seed”. This may be a reference to the pomegranate whose vivid red seeds can look similar to some garnet crystals. Garnet is also found in other colours but it is the beautiful claret-red variety that Sheila has used in her silver Garnet Cathedral collection. Rhodalite

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Famously a deep red, dark-toned stone, Garnet has also been discovered in a plethora of colors including green, orange and yellow.

A type of carved cab. The engraved design is made by cutting away the top layer to create a shape that appears raised from the rest of the gem’s body. This could be a face, animal, flower, etc. Gemstone luster is the way a stone looks when light hits it. It’s usually described as how “bright” or “shiny” a stone appears. It is derived from the Latin word “lux”, meaning “light”. Luster is affected by the stone’s surface as well as its internal structure. The more light that is able to reflect off of the surface of the gemstone, the higher the luster will be.Though cuts can be unique, there are many tried and true styles. Their predetermined number and placement of facets have stood the test of time to bring out the best in stones. Whether you gravitate towards the glamour and nostalgia of an antique cut, or you’re looking to modernize a classic mold, here are a few standard techniques to get you started. Of course, coloured gemstones will tend to mask the effect, and where the effect is visible, the colour of the fire will not be every colour of the rainbow as it is in the case of a white diamond. Fossilized tree sap from ancient rainforests. Amber is often found along the beaches of the southeast of England where it washes up after a very long journey. Pearls are created within molluscs and are renowned for their lustre and the way light reacts with their surface. We use freshwater pearls from freshwater mussels in Sheila's designs. Take a look at Sheila’s lovely Lunar Pearl collection which incorporate pearls in silver and gold. Assessment: The expert considers the gem’s current quality to decide what cut will accentuate its finer features, such as color and clarity.

Only discovered in 1967, supplies of this intense indigo stone are running out fast, and it has been predicted to run out within our generation. Mined for thousands of years, Sapphire features a delicious deep cornflower blue hue. Other colors exist too and are known as ‘Fancy Sapphires’. Resinous luster is comparable to the appearance of resin or smooth plastic. Amber is one of the most well-known gems with a resinous luster, which makes sense given that it is classified as a plant resin. Others include sphalerite, sphene and vesuvianite. These richly coloured stones belong to the beryl group, which also includes aquamarine. Emerald's captivating green colour is unique and unparalleled in all other gemstones due to inclusions that make each stone unique. Along with high quality diamonds, blue sapphires and red rubies, the green emerald is one of the “big four”. Unlike the other three, however, emeralds are more fragile and exposure to excessive moisture should be avoided. High Value Semi-Precious Gemstones Designed for beginners and experienced collectors alike, this gemology book explores what gemstones are, how they are classified, and how to identify them by their physical and optical properties. It also shows you how they were fashioned and imitated throughout history. Learn the differences between varieties of cut and uncut stones, organic gemstones, and precious metals. It includes a glossary for many more technical and scientific terms and over 800 high-quality photos of gems. It's the ideal gift for any budding gemologistMetallic luster, a reflective metal-like appearance, is a term not often used for gemstones. Hematite, however, is a notable exception. It has a brilliant, metallic gleam and gem cutters have fashioned cameos and beads from it. Gypsum, for instance, may have a pearly luster on surfaces parallel to the cleavage yet a vitreous luster on some crystal faces. Each facet contributes to how light scatters and flashes across your gem, adding to its overall beauty. Here’s how to define the facets.