Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff. It's simplest on a new/clean drivetrain, you just need to degrease/clean/dry the chain then wash in the hot wax. So there is some outlay in electric hotpot, thermometer, wax and degreasing/cleaning chemicals. The short answer: probably. For mountain bikers and other off-road cyclists, it’s a great choice. Riding in dusty, gritty conditions is why it was created in the first place, and it can handle slightly wet conditions. Most cyclists would benefit from using dry bike chain lube as their go-to, according to Krause. He sees it used in all disciplines. Finish Line's Ceramic Wax lube is an advanced, wax based bicycle chain lubricant that ensures total drivetrain cleanliness without the distance compromise that other wax lubricants require. Ceramic Wax Lube has even been use by one of Finish Line's WorldTour teams in dry weather races of 120 miles. Ceramic Wax lube is the perfect choice for serious cyclists who want to minimize the amount of time they spend on drivetrain maintenance and maximize the amount of time they spend in the saddle. Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better.

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care ProductsLube Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care ProductsLube

I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. Argus Tuft: One or two weeks between lubes is about right, maybe 300-400km.When it starts to make the whirring sound. On the other hand, dry bike chain lubricants contain a small amount of oil, additives that let it dry and set up with a “wax-like film,” other additives to help prevent corrosion, and a solid to help with lubrication. These solids are usually a mix of PTFE (like Teflon), synthetic ceramic (like Boron Nitride), molybdenum, or graphite. They reduce friction between the chain’s metal surfaces by acting as a boundary. Teflon has typically been used, but Krause said that his company is moving towards focusing more on ceramics, specifically Boron Nitride, because it’s proving to be even more effective. (Similarly, you’ll find synthetic ceramics widely used in cookware, coatings on cars, and more.)hawkinspeter replied to Argus Tuft: I've tried paraffin wax myself, but I didn't use any solvent with it. I used to melt the wax in a small frying pan and put the chain in it. Then, sprinkle some micronised graphite on top of the chain and put some paraffin wax granules on top so that they melt and carry the graphite into the chain. Swill around a bit and then remove the chain and let it cool. Once cool, spend a bit of time removing excess wax and flexing each joint of the chain and then pop it on the bike.

Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Chain Lube (8 fl oz 240ml Bottle

Graphenlube does appear to reduce friction, and it's certainly pretty tenacious in real-world conditions. It's very expensive, but so are a lot of other bike-related things. If you're the kind of person who looks to buy a bit of extra performance, then here's another thing you can spend your hard-earned on. For the sort of savings you can expect I wouldn't say it was particularly good value, but you might have snaffled all the low-hanging fruit already, or you might not care. And it probably is the best lube I've tried.”

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Rian_constant replied to PRSboy: Wax-based lubricants are the first choice for summer bikes. Advantages of wax without the hassle and dangers of melting wax. Reapplying is done in less than a minute. A friend of mine was doing that years ago, and suffered third degree facial burns when it caught fire as she was heating it. Be *very* careful. BehindTheBikesheds replied to StraelGuy: Only a thousand miles, christ what are you riding through dust, dirt, mud, rain with road salt for good measure and not wiping post ride or any cleaning at all? This really is one thing where dirt cheap is actually technically superior to all the potions, lotions and sauces they sell by the ounce. The only genuine hassle is the first degrease and clean - but you were doing that between regular lubes already, no? Thereafter I just pre-rinse the chain in boiling water, then rewax.

Dry Bike Chain Lube | When to Use Dry Chain Lube How to Use Dry Bike Chain Lube | When to Use Dry Chain Lube

Conventional wisdom points to a wet lube for wet winter cycling, and a dry lube for summer cycling when it’s dry and conditions are good. It’s a good rule of thumb to follow and you won’t go wrong if you choose this approach. Cafe wisdom: road.cc readers weigh in on chain lubricants Do you need 6 chains for multiple bikes or do chains not last as long with waxing vs oiling? I'm guessing two chains is a good idea as unlike oil, you can't wax a chain in 30secs before a ride?

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Argus Tuft: I'm with bikespud. Wax every time. Boeshield (T47?), White Lightning – It's just wax dissolved in solvent. It even says as much on the Boeshield bottle. Make your own and use heaps. It's almost free! So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me.

Bike Lube | Lubricants | Chain Lube | Halfords UK Bike Lube | Lubricants | Chain Lube | Halfords UK

Having said that, chain cleaning is a lousy job, so I now use the insitu hot waxing described above.Boatsie: I used vegetable oil once. Smooth as.. At end of ride I must have collected a sandbox worth of sand though.. Grindy as. Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be. Many people were using motor oil, some were using cooking oil, some were using hot-wax dipping,” Krause told Bicycling. And finally, I went into the LBS who had a nice window display of wheels, said "what have you got that will me make me a better climber?" The guy asked could I wait three weeks, I said OK, he gave me a diet sheet. Previous to MB I used the molten wax routine which was great but a lot of work, not worth the hassle. I want to spend time riding my bike, not tinkering with it.