The Tuo sports automatic resistance adjustment, so you can enjoy simulated gradient shifts while using the trainer with apps such as Zwift. 2. WHEEL-ON vs DIRECT-DRIVE Elite’s support apps are a bit confusing, because they use their main app (myETraining) for calibration, and a second app for firmware updates.

In my testing on Zwift, at 100% trainer difficulty, with numerous climbs just under 10%, it felt fine, and the resistance correctly smoothly applied while going through the rollers on the Titans Grove course. This means interactivity on apps like Zwift, TrainerRoad, Kinomap, The Sufferfest, Fulgaz and plenty of others will work as normal. Those apps can control the trainer up to an incline of 10% grade, and a max power of 1,250 watts (at 40KPH), or an unachievable 2,050w (at 60KPH). Though, I suspect your rear tire would probably melt through the tostapane at 60KPH. But yeah, technically it was tested by Elite to those levels.

CADENCE

The tire will then rest on the main resistance unit of the trainer, where the silver box that holds the roller presses against your tire. In addition inside there are all the electronic bits. Once you’ve got that done, ensure you rotate the lower knob all the way nice and tight, else, you’ll get inaccurate results. Well, let’s start in ERG mode, and then work our way out of that. For ERG mode I’m using the small chainring as recommended (and mid-way up the cassette), so that lowers the flywheel speed, and typically makes it easier for trainers to respond. In any case, here’s the full data set from the same workout above. This is compared to a Quarq DZero power meter, PowerTap G3 hub power meter, and a pair of SRM X power meter pedals. Here’s the full data set: Magene Gravat: Distribution is the main factor here. It’s largely only available in Asia, and while they do actually make some good trainers (see my review on it previously), it’s just hard to include when the majority of the world can’t get it. I’m looking to try and get the latest one, though distribution is frankly still the main issue here. Simulation (SIM) Mode: Simulating a specific outdoor grade – i.e., 8% incline. In this mode, it’s just like outdoors in that you can change your gearing to make it easier or harder. Wattage is not hard-set, only incline levels.

Sixth, support and customer service: For the most part, all of the major trainer companies (Wahoo, Tacx/Garmin, Elite, and Saris) have pretty good customer support, and very rarely do I hear of stories of customers being left in a lurch. This year obviously is more challenging with spare parts/units and such due to COVID, but despite that overwhelming demand/strain, bad stories from the majors are few and far between. Said differently – while there are nuances to each company’s support in a given region, for the most part I wouldn’t let it be a major factor in 2020 between the brands. Technical Considerations: You’ll notice I said ‘NEO Series’, and not just the NEO 2T. Because frankly, all of them are still really solid. The NEO 2 added some minor internal hardware over the NEO 1, and eventually Tacx plans to release Garmin Cycling Dynamics to the NEO 2T and NEO 2 based on that (but a year later…it’s still not actually there). Whereas the NEO 2T got substantially increased power from an internals standpoint. Your smart trainer will have Bluetooth and ANT+ connectivity to a cycling computer, smartphone, computer or other device built in, so you can link it up, collect up the other essentials for indoor training and start to ride. Is wheel-on or wheel-off better?The Elite Tuo has redefined for me what a wheel-on trainer can do with accuracy and aesthetics. I hope to see more like this from Elite — especially in the affordable rage. But no matter, all of these will require calibration about 10-15 minutes into a ride to ensure accurate numbers. With that in mind, here are your lower-priced options:

In previous years, several units made the budget trainer recommended list. All have been dropped save one: the Tacx Flow Smart.

While the NEO 2T did have some initial accuracy issues when it was first announced, those were largely resolved in subsequent firmware updates to my satisfaction. I feel like the Saris H3 is the little trainer that could. In past years the H1 and H2 have always fallen short on the list. But last year the H3 finally climbed into the top recommendations list. With the H3 the company made some minor technological tweaks, but also substantially reduced the price. And that combination put it over the edge.

For ANT+ FE-C, devices such as the Garmin, Stages, Wahoo, and Hammerhead cycling units support controlling the trainer straight from your head unit. This also means you can re-ride your outside rides (elevation changes and all) without any other software. The Tuo generated its resistance from a magnetic roller. These types of machines use opposing magnets to provide resistance. The flywheel is filled with magnets – due to centrifugal forces, these magnets get closer together and begin to attract. This ends up creating greater resistance for the rider.

WHERE TO BUY

ANT+ Power Meter Profile: This broadcasts as a standard ANT+ power meter, with cadence and speed data I don’t have a ton of experience on rollers unfortunately. I have recently tested the InsideRide solution with the floating fork, and I found that super compelling. But it’s hard to recommend that for most people, given the accuracy and price limitations. I found the power output to be very accurate following the Elite tire pressure protocol. From a cold (dawn patrol style) ride, the unit needs a little time to “warm-up,” but so do I. Basically, the power data seems to be more dependable and accurate after a 10 minute warm-up for the unit. I noticed a slight fluctuation/discrepancy in power between my FSA PowerBox and the Elite Tuo, but only for the first couple of minutes of winter basement training. After we both warmed up, the power was right on the money.