Bourjois Java Rice Powder is a multi-purpose loose powder that is aimed at completing a flawless makeup look with no oily sheen left. This versatile rice powder will please you with an even and lightweight coverage, enhancing the staying power of your makeup greatly. Additional Evening in Paris lines added in Britain during the 1930s included: Evening in Paris Toilet Soap, and Vanishing Cream (1931); Solid Brilliantine, Shampoo Powder, Hair Cream, Cold Cream, and Toilet Soap (1932); Evening in Paris Powder Cream (1933); Skin Freshener, Complexion Milk, Astringent Lotion, and Cleansing Cream (1934); Wave Setting Lotion (1935); Eau de Cologne (1936); and Rouge (1938). Clearly most of these were similar to lines already developed for Ashes of Roses. As the Great Depression deepened in the 1930s, the American Federal government responded to local pressure and tried to protect its local industry through the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act (1930). This raised import duties on a range of products by an average of 20% which encouraged many companies to increase local production. New perfume series released by Bourjois during the 1930s in the United States included Springtime in Paris (1932), Flamme (1935), Kobako (1936) and Mais Oui (1939). Springtime in Paris and Kobako were released in France in the same year as America but I can find no record of Mais Oui going on sale in France in the 1930s or any of these new fragrances being available in Britain or the Dominions before the Second World War except for Flamme.

When Pierre Wertheimer died in 1965, the company passed to his son Jacques Guy Wertheimer [1911-1996] who, from all accounts, did little to advance the Wertheimer interests. His sons, Alain Ernest Wertheimer [b.1948] and Gérald Philippe Wertheimer [b.1951], proved to be better businessmen but appear to be more interested in the upper echelons of the cosmetic and fashion market, selling Bourjois, a budget brand, to Coty in 2015. Timeline The use of English terms like Cleansing Cream, Skin Food, and Protection Cream, followed Bourjois’ previous use of names like Cold Cream and Vanishing Cream. Bourjois’ major cosmetic brand, Barbara Gould, also labelled its products sold in France with English names. Evening in Paris Peaches and Cream Foundation:“A semi-liquid color veil for the skin that doubles the glamour of your face powder. Hides minor surface flaws; plays down tiny surface lines; beneficial as well as beautifying.” Shades: Light, Medium, and Dark. The bottle for Evening in Paris was also redesigned in 1954 and the range was advertised on television, generally around Christmas, which broadcast to every viewer how inexpensive it was. This may have been detrimental in the low run, perhaps ‘cheapening’ the brand and hastening its disappearance in the United States.Joseph-Flbert Ponsin was a Frenchman who used to work as a stage actor. Initially, the man was engaged in creating cosmetics, which Parisian actors used for performances. One of the first goods invented by Ponsin was dry blushes. In the second half of the 19th century, such decorative cosmetics did not exist. Entirely naturally, this development created a furore. The new tax was levied on manufacturers so Bourjois separated the distribution part of its business from the manufacturing side and then paid the tax on the lower price Bourjois Inc. levied its newly created distributor, Bourjois Sales Corp. for the products it manufactured rather than the higher price Bourjois Sales charged for these goods. This lowered the amount of tax the company paid to the Federal Government. Bourjois continued to sell a wide range of rouges in Britain and the Dominions during the 1930s. The Ashes of Roses Rouge only came in Rosette Brune, Rosette Blonde, and Mandarine shades but the company sold at least seventeen other shades of rouge in Britain in the 1930s. Those that I have evidence for are Rouge Incarnat, Rouge Groseille, Rouge Corail, Vert Opelia, and Cendres de Violettes. Trade advertisement for Bourjois Easter novelties. Bourjois also tried to reduce its reliance on Christmas sales by developing Evening in Paris lines for other events such as Easter. Above: 1942 Bourjois Evening in Paris Creme Perfume made with a vanishing cream base rather than using alcohol which was needed for the war effort.

Another adjustment made by Bourjois in France to the general economic downturn was the introduction of a new budget line. Released in 1931, the Produits de Babette were described as effective, simple, and inexpensive. There were products for oily (peaux grasse) and dry (peaux sec) skin types and suggestions for day and night regimes. Evening in Paris Satin Finish Compact:“ [M]ake-up flatters like a powder, clings like a kiss . . . the glow doesn’t go, thanks to a fabulous French beauty ingredient.” Shades: Texas, Miami, Mexico, and Cuba. The Cuba shade was later dropped, presumable due to the Cuban Revolution, and the range became Arizona, Texas, Miami, Florida, and Mexico. By 1962, Bourjois seems to have reverted to descriptive shades such as Rose Beige, Cream Beige, Rachel, Brunette, Fair, and Suntan. The American perfumer and aromatics. (1956-1960). Pontiac, IL. [etc.], Allured Publishing Corporation [etc.]. I have no record of the Produits de Babette being extended into make-up but as the range included nail polish, I do not rule it out. However, the life of the range was short. Like Mon Parfum, it did not survive the Second World War. You can’t be beautiful without having your hair done impeccably. To discipline your hair, make it supple and shiny, lightly spray with the luminous “Soir de Paris” brilliantine.Enhancing the radiance of your complexion, the inimitable pastel shades and the famous “Sour de Paris” powder, fine and “covering”, in your choice of many skilfully studied colours. Soir de Paris became available in France and other parts of
Europe in 1929, when conditions were economically very buoyant and initially Bourjois used Babette, the fictional character Bourjois had created in 1924 to promote Mon Parfum and the Fards Pastels, to promote it. Worth mentioning is Bourjois’ Mansfield range of men’s shaving toiletries. Introduced in 1936, the line consisted of Mansfield Shaving Soap, Shaving Cream, Talcum, and After Shave Lotion. Bourjois had made shaving products well before this but this range appears to have been specifically developed for Father’s Day which American stores began to heavily promote in the 1930s to help boost flagging sales. Mansfield was not Bourjois’ first fragrance created for men; Chicote was available in the Spanish speaking world by 1935. France

Strangely, just after its Croydon factory was bombed in 1940, the British company announced that it was celebrating Bourjois’ Centenary. Publicity material associated with the event claimed that the company had been founded in 1840 when André Bourjois began selling Poudre de Riz de Java from his house. Where they got the date and André Bourjois from is beyond me. Also largely missing is any mention of eye make-up, and nail polish. Bourjois did make these but there are few records of their range or development before 1960 which is where my interest ends. United States The French company Bourjois has almost 160 years of history and is headquartered in Paris. The brand creates decorative cosmetics, skincare treatments, and perfumes. Many customers consider the company's products an example of a perfect combination of affordable price and high quality.The Federal Bureau of Internal Revenue viewed Bourjois’ reorganisation as an illegal tax-avoidance strategy and took Bourjois to court. After appeals, the case was eventually resolved in 1936 with the judge ruling in favour of the government. A number of other American cosmetic companies, such as Elmo, Marinello, and Lady Esther had introduced a similar tax-reduction strategy so Bourjois became a closely watched test case. Although the American Coty Corporation bought Bourjois in 2014, the TM still adheres to the traditions established a century and a half ago. New items appear on the shelves in an updated design or composition every season to make women customers even more appealing. The team members come up with new shades or provide textures that are as comfortable as possible for everyday use. The company's contemporary concept and inspiration As mentioned earlier, the Soir de Paris was joined by other fragrances in the 1930s including Printemps de Paris and Kobako which came out in the same year as their American versions. Much was made of the fact that Poudre Printemps de Paris only cost 8.50 Francs. By the 1930s, the development of cosmetics at Bourjois was primarily driven by the creation of new fragrances rather than new formulations. Each new perfume was developed into a series, its extent depending on the popularity of the fragrance. With few exceptions, all the cosmetics in each new range had already appeared in previous series so there was little need for innovation in formulation. Although profitable, this strategy would prove to be unsustainable in the long term.