Each fork type needs certain settings of the damping, oil, etc done. Eg: Some forks (Kayaba) require you to loosen off the damper before tightening the top cap. As it’s not smaller on the outside and inside, it will easily fall out when the new one is in place.

On UD forks the fork stanchion itself has the aluminium wheel thingy (technical term) at the bottom ... so you cannot just slip over a full seal or pipe. Make sure the fork is pulled apart ¾ of the way, and wrap the lower fork with the paper, and tape in place. It will feel as if it is catching on something and is unnerving at first – But this is simply the internal bushes/washer hitting the fork seal. Take off the top cap - Remove inner damping rod – It will slide out as you tip the fork oil out – And remove fork spring.

Then push them to the bottom of the fork and tape in place to stop them sliding down and getting in the way.

As you will see in the video – the total time spent actually driving the seal into place is no more than 2 minutes. (Studying the video again and it is actually under 1min 30 seconds per seal) Rough guide is that if you can clearly see the top and bottom of the spring clip recess, then the seal is in. The seal is ‘pressure fitted’ and you are meant to use the correct seal driver or take it to a bike shop. Rather than cutting it in half, in the past I’ve just ground down the outside and inside. The outside is fairly easy with a bench grinder – just push it against the grinder wheel enough that the seal spins fairly slowly with the grinder wheel still spinning fast. Then use a die grinder on the inside while clamped. At this point it is important to note / write down how each part fits together – As you will be cleaning them all later on.Not all upper and lower fork slider tubes are the same diameter, so this is going to take some patience on your part when in your local hardware store. If you can’t find something off the shelf like I did with the PVC coupler above, there is an alternative. Remove forks from yokes and loosen the top cap on the forks – Do not actually remove the top cap at this point.

Take fork upper and coat the seal mating face with seal grease (not normal grease). This is important as it will prevent the seal degrading and also the aluminium of the fork upper corroding. Ideally you’ll have used a section with a properly flat bottom, in which case you should be able to just drive straight down with a ‘slide hammer’ action (read wanking ), if it’s not properly flat at the bottom, you’ll need to keep turning the fork after each drive to ensure it stays evenly pushed down. To drive the seal down I use a cut down plastic drain pipe as a slide hammer. Get a plastic drain pipe at least maybe three times the width of a hand, ideally more.I am sure I am missing something really obvious here and that you will point it out and I will go "doh" ... so let the "silky is a muppet" comments begin Make sure that it is slightly less than half of one side (obviously) so that you can easily put it around the fork leg. Our experience is that the syringes with this product don't last forever with the interaction with suspension fluid and we would advise you to clean it out thoroughly after use. The syringe can be exchanged for a vacuum brake bleeding tool. The syringes on the professional version last much longer, so if you are stripping a lot of forks it is a better buy. Fork Oil Level Setting Tool Setting the fluid level in front forks accurately is critical to the safe handling of your bike and this tool makes it a piece of cake.