Natural, water-based protection doesn't penetrate as deeply, but still afford a good deal of protection, containing fungicides that inhibit the growth of mildew. They’re seen as more environmentally friendly. We recommend using the clear version, as it delivers a beautifully natural finish. The same can't quite be said about the teak colour, as it's a little orange. It’s designed to penetrate deep into the wood to replace the natural oils lost over time through weathering, and to offer deep-seated protection against splitting and drying, while the tinted oil brings out the colour in greyed wood for a fresh look. So, to paint or stain cedar weatherboards? Or possibly leave them untreated? There’s no right or wrong answer: your choice will depend on your design preference and required level of protection. When left untreated and exposed to the sun’s oxidising UV light, Western Red Cedar fades and bleaches to a beautiful silvery-grey finish. So if you’re after the weathered cedar look — perhaps some ‘silver fox’, distinguished weathered cedar cladding, for example — you simply don’t need to apply any treatment.

If you’ve spent the money on the construction, and spent time on the proper preparation, a word of advice…Don’t be cavalier with regard to the preservation and finish. Cedar wood is pitch and resin-free, which means that finishes are held very well by the wood as long as they are applied before the weathering process has begun.Oils often come in natural colours or clear, and enhance the natural appearance of your wood,' explains Jimmy Englezos, senior product manager at Sherwin-Williams. The final step is staining/painting the wood. While doing this, remember to work in the direction of the grain and not against it. You will not be able to get a smooth finish if you do this. Always beware to use a paintbrush instead of spraying while staining the wood. Even if the first coat is done by spraying, the final coat and refinishing have to be done by brush only. This will give a uniform look to the painted surface. Any corners missed out can also be given a touch-up with the hand brush. Cedar is a porous material and it takes a large amount of paint. Specifically, a hand brush is preferred for this reason. The paint used should be acrylic-based as it is resistant to mildew and also has strong adhesion qualities. A thorough coating or two of an acrylic-based paint is by far the most protective of the finishes on offer. It will shield the timber from moisture and weathering, but will completely conceal the wood’s colour and grain — so make sure to choose a wood paint of your desired colour. Of course, for any finishes applied, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s individual guidelines. Which cedar treatment should I choose? If you’re tired of restoring your wood and find you’re going to undesired lengths to keep the cedar looking good, there’s always the option of buying treated timber. Duffield Timber: your place for Western Red Cedar products, treatments & more

If ‘ can you paint cedar wood’, was the question on your mind, then yes you can paint both old and new ones. If it is new cedar, you have to first prepare it for accepting the paint. This process opens up the wood grain and keeps it ready for the painting session. Old cedar may have accumulated a lot of dust and needs a thorough cleaning. All mildew collected on exposure to elements needs to be removed so that paint stays well. Do not apply more stain than the cedar will absorb because the excess stain will appear as a shiny area on the surface. Bear in mind that, over time, the cedar will still weather to a grey colour, although this will happen more slowly and you’ll retain the wood’s beautiful, natural tones and patina.Oil is also really durable and is easy to maintain – you just need to keep it clean and touch it up every now and then. It’s very resistant to dirt and water so doesn’t require much upkeep at all.' We’ve had some lovely weather this month that’s hinted at a wonderfully warm summer, so get out in the garden, roll your sleeves up and put your DIY hat on. Stupidly, I fell under the marketing spell,read the copy on the product, saw the price and thought with proper prep, my job would be better…. it wasn’t! Water-repellents can be applied by sprayer, brush, pad or roller, followed by a brushing in the direction of the wood’s grain.

First, wash the steel wool (some manufacturers apply an oil to prevent it from rusting), then separate it as best as possible and put it in a clean glass jar with the vinegar (different types of vinegar will provide different shades). After the final coat is applied, the cedar wood has to be left out to dry for at least 72 hours. This can ensure even spread and adhesion of the paint applied. The surface should not be disturbed so that the effect stays for long. Owatrol Textrol HES is a good example of a powerful, oil-based protection for cedar wood against weather and UV, available in a range of tints from virtually clear to a charcoal. Whilst concealing some of the natural colour, a well-chosen finish like this can enhance the grain of your cedar. For longevity, you can't beat the natural silvery grey patina of oak or warm hues of cedar. Natural timber tones tend to work well anywhere. This depends on your home's exterior and the colours and tones in your garden. Avoid anything jarring, and look to either complement or contrast with your walls and fences.

Paints and solid-colour finishes allow you to take full control of appearance, adding a bit of excitement, colour or charm to a finished cedar project — but they’re not for the indecisive! Semi-transparent stains are usually best applied with a brush, although this can be achieved with a roller, pad, spray or drip. A second layer can be added for extra protection, but only if the cedar will accept it. If you are painting an old cedar, you have to consider the paint that was used earlier. Can you paint cedar wood with a transparent or semi-transparent coating? Not if you had given a solid coat already! The wood has already been covered and it is very difficult to apply a transparent coat, while vice versa is possible. Another thing that can affect the quality of finish uptake is how weathered the timber is. If your Western Red Cedar is showing signs of age, you’ll have to prepare the wood with a heavy-duty clean and restore. Skip the section below for more details on how to do this. Paint or solid-colour stain application When choosing the right product for protecting cedar cladding (or any exterior cedar wood project), you’ll have to strike a balance.

Repeated brush treatment of Western Red Cedar until the wood no longer absorbs any more products (known as the point of refusal) will enhance the durability of the finish. The cleaning process is very important before the new application of paint. All old paint would have dried up and needs to be wiped off the surface. The surface has to be cleaned with soap and then power washing helps remove all major dust and paint. The surface will now be ready to accept the new paint. This has to be allowed to dry before you start the process. Moisture may prevent the acceptance of paint by the surface. Treatments for cedar wood can be broadly placed into these groups: opaque, semi-transparent, transparent or untreated. Whilst treated cedar cladding still looks great, letting your cedar go grey is actually somewhat of a trend. Amongst architects, there’s been a growing appreciation for leaving materials like timber in their natural, rustic state, with their inherent, untreated beauty on full show.How much protection do you want or need? The amount of sunlight and rain hitting your wood will shorten the lifespan of the finish applied, so if it’s exposed, consider a strong, oil-based stain or paint. Top tip — Western Red Cedar has fantastic exterior finish-retention qualities, especially when smooth, as opposed to textured. Therefore, if you’re particularly interested in longevity, look for planed cedar. 1. Opaque or solid-colour