I've used MEK before with excellent results - that's just MEK with no Acetone admixture. It's pretty volatile so good ventilation is a must. In the past, when I was young and daft, I've even used it to attach canopies with no problems As the name suggests, this type of cement has a much thinner consistency than the regular one. That means these types are used in a slightly different manner. You can essentially dry-fit the parts together and then use a fine brush to run a small amount of the glue around the seams of the parts. Thanks to the capillary action of the thin liquid, the cement will find its way between the dry-fitted parts and weld them together. This is especially useful for smaller parts; however, some modelers use these glues for the whole model. Warning– You must be careful with the thin plastic cement. When you are pressing the pieces together and you manage to accidentally touch your own finger with the brush, you will end up with your fingerprint imprinted into the surface of the plastic part. It is not difficult to fix with sandpaper and/or putty but it’s extremely annoying. You’ve been warned.

Some questions about Tamiya extra thin : r/modelmakers - Reddit Some questions about Tamiya extra thin : r/modelmakers - Reddit

It is still going to have the stupidly long drying times that that type of glue has. You are still going to need to clamp the parts together for a few hours for it to set. We require this information to understand your needs and provide you with a better service, and in particular for the following reasons:There’s a built-in brush in the cap which is extremely useful as you don’t have to use your brushes. The tip of the brush is nicely pointed allowing you to reach even the tightest spots. If you are using cement that has a built-in brush in the cap, don’t use the brush when gluing parts that have already been painted. If you do so, you will most likely get some paint on the brush tip and it will, in turn, get transferred into the rest of the glue in the jar. Over time, this can cause deterioration of the glue’s adhesive or welding properties. Has the same size brush as the extra thin and if it stays where its put rather than running like the extra thin. So I ran out of this and the LHS are all closed but not the hardware stores. I began searching for the ingredients and found the MSDS. So sharing here for record and in case others want to know. They are the best types of cements for plastics. I've been using them for 19 years, and I wont use anything else now.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Quick Set 40ml | Hobbycraft

You may choose to restrict the collection or use of your personal information in the following ways: I prefer the green one. It's much thinner, has a fine brush too and a much shorter hardening time. Once hardened the bond is very strong indeed. I also use it as a thinner for Tamiya putty; both before I apply it, and after to smoth things out. This combination makes a very good filling. Tamiya EXTRA THIN model cement is used to glue together plastic model kits that use polystyrene plastic. No crevice is too small for this flowing adhesive, which was ... I’ve just got hold of a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement and I am converted! This stuff is amazing for a lot of things but because it is so runny, I still need the normal viscous type of plastic cement.

But the problem is that my local hobby-shop does not have a cleaner either, but the factory and the household market have chemical components for making this glue myself. That glue is pretty much the same as the Revell/ GW/ModelMasters, just in a glass bottle. The brush is way too big IMHO, and is not the best applicator for small parts.. Original Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Item 87038) is still recommended for use in situations where you wish to fill larger gaps and seams.

Best Glue For Plastic Models - Guide and Reviews - Spring 2022

It is in fact pretty much the same thing as your regular white glue such as Elmer’s. Now you may be asking what on Earth you should pay so much for such a small bottle of PVA glue. The answer is that, unlike other glues, this one is guaranteed to dry crystal clear. Most normal PVA glues will not be as clear as the Micro Kristal Klear when they cure. Leave it to dry without touching it – You will know it’s dry when the glue turns clear from its normal milky color I began searching for the ingredients and found the MSDS. So sharing here for record and in case others want to know.

What follows

The aim of this series of entries in your SMN Techniques Bank is to help anyone who wants to know more about the different types of glue out there and what they should, and can, be used for. This is especially aimed at any of you who are returning to scale modelling after a long break or perhaps new to the hobby – there is certainly a bewildering choice of products readily available and this entry covers my suggestions and I hope you find it helpful. Micro Kristal Klear is a glue which is typically used to glue clear parts to create small windows up to about ¼ square inch. CA glues can also be used as a filler instead of a filling putty. Just keep in mind that fully cured super glue is a much harder material than the polystyrene plastic used to make model kits. Therefore, it’s a good idea to start sanding the filled spot before the glue is fully cured.

Tamiya Glues - Hobbylinc Tamiya Glues - Hobbylinc

I think we've got our wires crossed. I have the extra thin. What I want to know is if the normal Tamiya cement, i.e. this: This type of cement usually has the consistency of a syrup. It may take some time to dry completely, so you usually have enough time to slightly alter the fit of the glued parts. While the glue is drying, it can be a good idea to secure the parts together with clamps, masking tape, rubber bands, or whatever else you have on hand. This is probably the best general purpose plastic cement ever for modeling. It's not gooey like the Testors' stuff, but not overly runny. It doesn't slide where I don't want it to go, and dries in a few minutes. That's plenty of time to make adjustments. Once dried it's also easy to sand down, making detailing even easier.Having exhausted trying to glue with Mr.Hobby Mr.Cement S (as for my it's not glue, it's 💩, but this very good cleaner for panel line when you scribing panel line! 💡) The glue can be used to glue canopies of aircraft models or windscreens of car models without fear of them getting damaged. If you accidentally put the glue where you don’t want it, just wipe it off with a moistened q-tip. The glue is waterproof when cured. For example, a bit of isopropyl alcohol can be used to remove the cured glue. Like its earlier counter part, it stinks to high heaven due to the solvent levels. Prolonged use does give headaches so that has to be factored in when using it. When working with plastic cement, make sure the room you are in is properly ventilated. Plastic cement fumes can irritate your lungs and cause bad headaches. Some people can also have allergic reactions. This is also true for all super glues.