Full TTL function - Takes care of the exposure allowing you to concentrate on framing the perfect picture The tilt adjustment feature enables users to adjust the flash head's position for optimal lighting. There is also a built-in LCD display that provides information such as the flash mode, power levels, and battery life. The approximate recycling time is 2.2 seconds.

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A Godox GTT Speedlite is an essential tool that no photo-journalist, event or wedding photographer should be without and it will give you professional results, time after time. I 've decided to go with multiple tt350s, and build more powerflashes in the future. My rational comes from the idea of "small and fun" which can be maximized with these small flashes. If they are bigger they would be more of an incumbent. F8 and smaller incurs diffraction softening on Micro Four Thirds. F2.2 on MFT is the equivalent of f4.4 on a 35mm-format camera.Interesting. It's pretty clear the X1T is all around a better transmitter unit to use than the TT350. I bookmarked this post and found it helpful as I was considering TT350 and V860II for my GX7. So now I'll add an odd finding for discussion and consideration. First, working in a large urban hotel, I've found radio interference from nearby wifi, wireless mics, and God knows what else to seriously decrease the range and also make triggering very unreliable - like, only 20% success in a medium conference room. This is with Adorama's Zoom Mini (TT350) on-camera and a pair of Zoom Li-on R2s (V860II) on stands. On the theory that it would have greater radio power than the Zoom Mini, I got an R2 (X1). That had no problem triggering a pair of Zoom Li-ons 100' away in a large ballroom. Power is my secondary concern. I occasionally shoot large format. And when using it, I am concerned that the smaller TT350 won't have enough power. I.e. (EI 400 at f/16) As a slave unit, it cannot do cross-brand TTL. So, using my TT685C as master on a 5DMkII and the TT350-O as slave meant that if I set TTL, it would only fire at full power. M mode power control and HSS worked fine. My iPhone+A1 can also control its power remotely, but obviously, without HSS or TTL function. Having said that I just bought a Flashpoint (Godox made but sold by Adorama) R2 T "O" and two R2 Zoom "O" TTL strobes. I have not yet tried high speed flash but am very pleased with this true 'wireless' system as opposed to the Infra Red systems (low range and difficult in bright light) systems.

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The Godox TT350 is a flash unit that is compatible with Olympus cameras. It has a flash guide number of 36m and a color temperature of 5600K. The flash duration ranges from 1/350s for minimum power to 1/20000s for maximum power. It offers stroboscopic flash modes and has 3 group settings and 16 channels. I don't, but I use one on a GX7, which also isn't on the compatibility list. In some ways it works terrific. In others... um... well... concern. Portability. I shoot portraits, on location with lots of travelling, so size and portability is one of the main concern. You're welcome. I do hasten to add that I have no experience with using the TT685-O with a TT350-O or an X1T-O. All reports are that the X1T-O is a better on-camera trigger. I just upgraded from Panasonic GX85 to a A7RIV and would like to know if my Godox TT350o flash will work in any way with the A7RIV.I don't want to invest in two flash guns and a trigger if they don't work out out the box so to speak . I really hope you found this post interesting, informative but also entertaining. If that is the case, please leave a comment below and share this post with your friends! But most of all, please remember to Stay Safe, Keep Learning and Keep Creating. When you first turn the flash on it is in TTL mode. It means that the flash is ready to fire and set its power automatically, based on the information sent by the camera. This only works if the flash model is compatible with your camera. If your flashes are marked for, let’s say Canon, and you have a Nikon camera, TTL will not work. The TT350 is Godox’ smallest, AA batteries-based, hot shoe flash. It has a guide number of 35m at ISO 100 and 100mm zoom (equivalent), so it’s comparable to Canon’s 320EX or Sony’s HVL-F43RM. As it happens with all current Godox flashes, it has an integrated transceiver so it can control other flashes or it can be controlled remotely through Godox’s proprietary radio frequency system. It’s available for Canon, Sony, Nikon, Fujifilm, Micro 4/3 and Pentax cameras. Even though TTL is very useful in situations with constantly changing lights, it’s also hard to debug in case things don’t work. That’s why so many people recommend shooting with flash in manual mode.

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There's also the fact that the FL600R's AF assist doesn't work on older micro four-thirds bodies, indicating Olympus or Panasonic may have changed the hotshoe protocol midstream. And whether or not those changes were included in any documentation they have of the hotshoe "standard" that a 3rd party could use to develop from is in question. Even with the Canon Godox gear, the AF assist works great—unless you have a 5DMkIV. So it appears Canon silently changed the hotshoe protocol again. In other words, Godox may be trying to hit a moving target, with no information on where/how/when it moved. The best way to find out is to try it? I believe it should function in manual mode but not TTL. I use a Godox flash for Sony on an Olympus and it works in manual mode. I also use a flash made for Fuji on a Sony camera in manual mode. And yes a Sony Godox flash or trigger will fire the other non Sony Godox flash. Switching the TT350 to manual mode is pretty easy. Just press the Mode button once and the screen now displays an M at the top and the current power setting at the left of the screen, in the form of a fraction, so that 1/1 is full power.

The flash can be zoomed to the desired coverage, and it’s pretty simple to change. Press the Zoom button once and then turn the wheel. Turning it to the right zooms the flash in, decreasing coverage. Turning the wheel to the left zooms the flash out, increasing the coverage. If you turn the wheel all the way to the left you’ll see the AU option, which allows the flash to set the zoom automatically, based on the lens on the camera. This is one of those compatible camera-only functions. Off-Camera My recommendation is if you want it as an on-camera flash, don't hesitate. If you want it as an on-camera transmitter, consider getting an X1T-O or wait for the XPro-O. If you want it only as an off-camera slave, I'd recommend a TT600 instead, because it's cheaper and has more power and because Idon't have HSS issues with it. But. YMMV. had the flash pointed up and a little bit forward toward the subject to be evenly lit. I found bouncing off the sides didn't work as well for what I wanted.

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Whether you're a seasoned professional or just starting out, this subreddit is the perfect place to ask questions, seek advice, and engage in discussions about all things photography. We're here to foster a supportive and knowledgeable community that shares a passion for capturing the world through the lens. To get the most from your camera gear, I think you will need more lighting options. You should be aiming for close to base ISO while shooting at around f/8. In this shot, you are already at ISO 400 and shooting nearly wide open. If you're more used to/comfortable with studio strobes and would prefer those to speedlights for the work you do, they also exist in the Godox X system. And they also have battery-powered barebulb flashes and studio strobes.Low light focus is an issue. When the Olympus has a flash unit on it the focus assist light appears to be inactive (although it appears to come on every now and then). The battery compartment is pretty straightforward, except it only holds two AA batteries, which gives you a big hint about its power output (spoiler: it’s not super powerful, but it’s great).