This only has a chance of 'working' for "dominant right eye" photographers. "Dominant left eye" (as I am) users cannot do as you describe I tried it but found the time spent hassling with it didn't provide enough benefits. Plus, it's more stuff to carry. You will need to calibrate it (line up the dot with the center of your image) based on your lens (and focal length, if a zoom lens, I think...). You can then set a single AF point in the center of your image as well, so the camera will auto-focus on whatever the red dot is on when you press the shutter release. When I got my OM-1, I tried the old dot sight again. Clearly, subject recognition eliminated the problem of slight misalignment of the reticle dot and the camera focus point. It worked really well for birds. Unfortunately, the mount of the sight didn't fit precisely in the camera shoe so alignment was iffy. Moreover, it required a hex key for calibration, it was heavy and clunky, the battery compartment cover threads were horrible to work with, and the switches required a lot of force that would move the sight around in the shoe. The EE-1 is small, light and made of robust plastic. It is also dust and splash proof, meaning I was able to use it in light rain without any fear of damaging it. It uses a coin-type battery.

It's well made and much smaller/lighter than most home-brew solutions (for attaching a gun RDS to a Cold shoe). The EE-1 seems like a very simple object to use at first glance but it needs to be configured and that requires some trial and error.

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Once the red-dot sight is calibrated (see below), hold the camera while looking through the red-dot sight with your right eye (most people do not need to close the left eye while doing this), move the camera to place the target pattern right on top of the subject, or on the part of the subject that you want to place at the center of the frame, then shoot a sequence and let AF and IS do the rest. In moving my eye to the EVF or TS the subject was no longer shown where I thought it was, due to camera movement. And when shooting BIF, the position of the light really matters - so your options for mitigating glare are limited. As one person already mentioned, you sort of need to hold the camera away from your face, the way a person w/o an EVF would need to use the display. For me, that's uncomfortable and not natural, along with having to put up with the sun's glare. And when shooting BIF, the position of the light really matters - so your options for mitigating glare are limited. The EE-1 is described as weather-proof, which I assume applies to the battery compartment and electrical parts. There is no weather protection whatsoever of the holographic reticle plate and casing mechanics when the sight is open, and no weather seal around the parts that close against each other. The top of the casing is only there as a sun-shade against stray light and as a finger guard to prevent touching the reticle.

The dot sight worked through all the focal lengths without re-calibration, pretty much as one would expect really, as the lens axis is common for ALL lenses….Dahhhhhh. My EE-1 is arriving today! And in a few hours I will be trying it out for the first time with my extreme setup. The subject can be located precisely with the reticle, framing and focus confirmed either using the EVF or TS. The internal LED is turned on with a knob on the left side of the casing, which also allows the LED intensity to be adjusted. The optimal LED intensity depends on ambient illumination. The EE-1 casing pops open by sliding a latch on its rear. The instructions say that closing the sight turns off the LED. I have been unable to confirm this, since the LED remains on when the case is even slightly open. If there is a hidden switch, it does not engage until the casing is completely closed and the LED is invisible.That seems reasonable. However, my post was specifically to describe that it worked very well with the OM-1 and subject identification. Parallax error is, of course, not helpful, but it doesn't necessarily render it useless unless it puts the target completely out of the subject recognition zone. An alternative is to calibrate the sight against a target at infinity (or at a high distance), measure the distance between lens axis and sight, which is about 90 mm with the EE-1 on-camera (i.e., about the width of four fingers), then point the circle-and-cross 90 mm above the center of the intended field of view. You will have to evaluate the 90 mm by eye, and with really large and distant subjects you can skip this step and simply center the circle-and-cross onto the subject. 90 mm off-target hardly makes a difference in the picture of a car or a buffalo, for instance. Overall I found the Olympus EE-1 to be an interesting accessory especially for those like me who have little experience with bird photography.