So many people ignore port unless it’s Christmas; a mistake, in my view. Tawny port is a great drink at any time of year. Aged for a long time in wood, until its colour fades to a gleaming garnet and it begins to taste of orange peel, caramel and roasted hazelnuts, tawny port is at its best served straight from the fridge, after dinner. The L’Atzar Reserva has had 15 months in that second ferment phase, resting on dead yeast to give a bready character to the soft mineral talc, floral and pear and lemon fruit. It is dry and those flavours last around for a long moment making this cava a versatile choice. Me … it makes me think of sitting on a beach with an impromptu picnic and watching the world go by. However, I am sure that you can come up with your own ideas. Rioja is really good with both pork and lamb. For the pork, think pulled pork or meltingly soft, slow-cooked pork shoulder (you could serve this with a date and almond couscous); lamb could be a classic roast leg of lamb studded with rosemary and garlic or a slow-cooked joint. Of course, there’s no such place as cava. It’s the only Spanish denomination not to have its own geographical home. Cava is produced in as many as 159 towns and villages across the country, including in Valencia, La Rioja and Extremadura, as well as Catalonia. However, the vast majority of cava is made in Catalonia. So when talking about holidaying in cava country, that does mean Catalonia, and specifically the region of Penedès.

Pinot noir is so often a possible answer to the “what shall I drink with this?” question. It is very good with the earthy flavour of mushrooms – think garlic mushrooms on toast; mushroom risotto; monkfish with ceps and artichokes; macaroni cheese layered with mushrooms. This Cava offers a lot of heart for the value. Whereas prosecco is known to keep it fruity appeal because it is made in large steel tanks, Cava is a traditionally made fizz. It is made using the same method as Champagne: after the initial ferment in a stainless steel tank, the dry wine is then bottled for the second ferment which captures the bubbles in that bottle, giving you a more complex wine with finer bubbles. Gramona has long been a pioneer in research and has plenty to show the interested visitor – including its own ice wine. Codorníu has an experimental cellar that is producing a new top tier of wines, as well as providing insights into polishing up the mainstream brands. Matching every course with a wine can feel fussy, detracting from the fun rather than adding to it. I make an exception if lunch or dinner is simply a main then a pudding, when a dessert plus a good wine turns it into an event. A few good combinations: strawberries and moscato d’Asti; orange salad and cream sherry; tarte Tatin and sweet riesling or Coteaux du Layon (sweet wine made in the Loire from chenin blanc). Basil Richard Bampfield, Master of Wine at Lidl said: Richard Bampfield, Master of Wine at Lidl said: “Dry, with bright, citrus aromas and attractive creaminess on the palate, the Cava Brut really is a high quality fizz at this special price point. A refreshing, tasty reminder that Cava often outperforms its big rival, Prosecco.”

Essential Cookies

For some people, wine is just a drink. For me, it’s as much a part of dinner as whatever is on my plate. And just as a cook might say, “this is good with French beans or a green salad”, or think about how the different parts of a meal might sit together to satisfy the appetite, I think about the place of the wine, its taste and perfume, on the table. There are two ways to go here. You can look for reds that have generous fruitiness, such as Portuguese reds, southern Rhône blends, Australian cabernet-shiraz blends and also reds from South Africa: Cape blends (which contain some pinotage), Rhône-style blends or Bordeaux-style blends.

This is partly a mood thing. It’s also about the fact that what you’re eating has the power to change the perception of the wine you are drinking. For instance, salty food makes a wine taste less refreshing, a big steak seems to soften the tannins in a red wine, and so on. In the same way it can work with other salty, fatty foods such as cured hams, fried chorizo or salty, hard cheeses like aged pecorino. Cava also works well with asparagus risotto and with Spanish rice with artichokes and tomatoes. And yes, if you’re wondering about the first two dishes on that list, this is a red wine with fish situation – the Spanish put Rioja with fish all the time. Palataia Pinot Noir 2020With dishes such as chilli con carne or red meat cooked in a spicy marinade or rub, red wine can be good but choose one that is generously fruity because the chilli will effectively turn down the volume on the fruit and you want to have some left. Rioja goes really well with the paprika-spice of chorizo, and you could also serve it with almost any dish in which chorizo is a strong flavour, for instance: cod with butter beans in a chorizo and tomato sauce; squid, chorizo and red pepper stew; or just chorizo sausages cooked in red wine and served with chunks of fresh bread.