If you overvolt a motor most will take it, but optimal efficiency motor speeds will increase as well so you may make it less efficient at the speed you want to run it at most of the time. Once they are signed up with a scheme, the employee needs to find a cycle retailer who is also registered with that scheme.

Aluminum alloy controller shell can protect the inner circuit due to good heat dissipation feature to avoid thermal overloading.I have never "lost" a battery myself, my last bike was sold with the original battery still working, at 7 years old! Electric Bike Conversions is registered with four of these schemes - Bike2Work, Cycle Scheme, Green Commute Initiative and CyclePlus. But your comments need wise consideration and for each of us to be careful and due concern must be given. My KT is in a Alpkit frame/top tube under slung bag and gets warm esp in summer and like AK mentioned suffers thermal cut out so to prevent this I have fitted a pair of 5v micro fans on an additional finned heat sink and run the fans off a separate 2p 1s battery I welded with a 1s bms.

This controller box can give your e-bike controller good protection, dust-proof and waterproof, a great accessory for your electric bicycles. This controller box can give your e-bike controller a good protection, dust-proof and waterproof, a great accessory for your electric bicycles. This Electric Bicycle Controller Kit with two Speed Mode controlling, the 250W road-legal Mode and the 1500W High-speed Mode. Your employer pays for the conversion kit via the scheme and the scheme then pays us for the purchase once you have collected the kit and provided us with your certificate. Inside this KT 15 amp controller there are 7 x 50v caps, my guess is you would need to replace them all if you want to run at 48 v so it is just much easier to get a 48v controller instead.Yes the RPM is increased but then so is the battery usage - but if you're indeed going at a faster RPM, the mileage should just even out? First though one needs to know if they want to do put in a fair amount of effort or hardly none at all, if the former then one has to ride with as little assist as possible ( lowest PAS level ). An all in one kit is hard to find, because it gets a bit complicated, I mean the web page selling it would need to list dozens of variants on the page. At fast road cycling speeds on the level you're in a zone where most of the work is against aerodynamic drag which is proportional to the square of speed so that power is proportional to the cube of speed.

If you need to cool the battery, but I must admit that in almost 10 years of e-biking I have never noticed much heat from any of the Li-ion batteries I have owned, but naturally, if your battery does get hot and that it is a concern, small holes, low down and maybe a tiny fan (CPU Type), should sort that out easily. This controller box is made of qualified plastic and metal material, firm, solid and durable to use. A lot of people have said, if in doubt (it's not labelled) unscrew the controller box and if the capacitors are rated at 63V or more then it can tolerate having a 48V battery. I still don't know what "36V/48V" refers to on those controller boxes, but I assume it must mean the battery. Manc33 wrote: ↑ 20 Jun 2021, 1:28amJudging from the 250W motor I was using around 2016 and the small battery pack on that giving me about 11 or 12 miles (24V/8.I feel that it will be very easy to build a good quality box, with all the features needed, for very little money! A whole variety of legal kits complete with larger than typical batteries at Woosh ( http://wooshbikes. Specification: Material: ABS Color: Black Weight: About 120g/set size: inner holes center distance ：172x70MM outer size: 185x105x5MM Package Includes: 1x controller box Note: 1. So as long as I get a controller box that can handle 48V (a lot of them say "36V/48V" on the label on the controller) and I run that through the 250W/36V motor. I worked out on the same Wattage motor should give me about a 55 mile range on a battery thats 48V/24Ah.