I have a small passageway at the side of the house that was built about 30 years ago of wood but in the last 10 years slowly deteriorated until it collapsed in 2018. As we have mentioned, paint manufacturers will often recommend using a specific primer or stabiliser when using their product. This is sometimes essential, especially when using a specialist product. Emperor Paint Exterior Masonry Primer for example is a highly advanced super hydrophobic masonry paint that completely repels water and creates a self-cleaning surface on exterior walls. Due to this technology, you must use their Emperor Paint Exterior Masonry Primer as this contains the same super hydrophobic technology. If you use a standard primer, you can impact the performance of the paint. Which Primer Or Stabilising Solution To Use If you are looking for a general use exterior primer or stabiliser, a great option is Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3. It will smooth out damaged areas but as I said, can't work total miracles hence some prep requires - how much depends on how bad the wall is, quality of paper and also your own standards and expectations

I've heard that you shouldn't apply stabilising solution to new render, but I'm not sure why? I have to do something about the chalky render before painting, don't I? It's been a year since the render was applied, so I guess it's not technically "new" anymore, it's just "unpainted". Stabilises and hardens “friable” masonry or masonry surfaces which may have “gone soft” due to extreme weathering.is very good, stripped off wall paper in several bedrooms here, paint underneath was distemper type paint, colour rubbed off on your hand if wet, also dusty, 406 sealed it perfectly for painting. You should also keep in mind the fact that some level of dust/powder on new surfaces is normal. It is recommended to leave the new surface exposed to weather for at least a year before applying any paint or stabilising solution to it. Unstable masonry can cause defects to your paint system. How Do You Use Stabilising Solution? Have you ever encountered lime paint on a ceiling? I’ve tried to roll the ceiling and it’s just pulling off in strips. Will a stabilising solution help? What Is Stabilising Solution?

That's why so often in the trade damaged items, be it woodwork, walls, ceilings, etc, are simply over boarded with plasterboard or timber trims removed and replaced with new. It actually works out cheaper when compared to all the extra labour required to repair and prep these items A coat or two of diluted PVA or depending if a painted surface, a similar product with a bit of grit in it for extra grip to new plaster The smooth render is fine. But the roughed up render is what I'd describe as chalky. I can brush off loose render with my fingers. Thin the fist coat so that it soaks into the surface but not so thin that is spatters everywhere. It depends on the quality of the paint how much water you should add but start with a small area first so you judge it.However, once it’s rubbed the surface below is relatively solid. I am worried that if I paint the surface with sandtex it could bubble if I don’t stabilise. Hi, May I suggest for optimum performance that you use TRADE products rather than the retail equivalents. Stabilising solution is a primer/sealer with the added quality of binding to chalking or friable surfaces and making them less water-absorbent. It is highly penetrative, meaning it will help fill up any holes in porous surfaces, allowing you to apply a paint system without any issues. Application: Brush or roller only. For Health and Safety reasons related to all solvent-based paints, spray is not recommended. SHAKE CONTAINER VIGOROUSLY BEFORE USE. When the surface has been fully prepared any areas that remain powdery and chalky should be sealed with a coat of Weathershield Stabilising Primer. When fully dry apply 2 coats of the selected Weathershield Masonry Paint. Weathershield Stabilising Primer should not be used as a general purpose sealer on normal or sound surfaces (i.e not powdery and chalky after the surface has been thoroughly prepared). New or sound bare surfaces should only be sealed with a thinned first coat of the masonry paint itself.