It really depends on how dark or light you want to color wood. The base color is in my opinion more or less the most important part as it creates the base setup of how it should look in the end. The rest works, atleast for me, pretty much always the same. For the hair, I once again started with Doombull Brown and this time highlighted with Reaper Tarnished Copper, then again with Tarnished Copper mixed with a bit of Wild Rider Red.

For Caracalla, my shield captain here, it is very important to note that I painted the cape separately, and glued it on after I was done. This entire process is a huge pain in the butt otherwise. The head was also painted separately. Finally, the shields were done by basecoating the inner section with Caliban Green followed by a heavy stipple of Warpstone. Reaper Jade Green was then lightly stippled, randomly to create clusters of color like you get in the gemstone. Finally the white veins were done with thinned down Splintered Bone. Scale75 Necro Gold frames the shield (and is what I used for all the rest of the gold. Ah, another HTPE where I’m paired with someone who is a much better painter than me. And Joey has done the same model in the same scheme and even used the same head and pose. Fantastic. The robes are painted the same way as the red fists, and for this first Veteran I also added some heraldry to his badge in the quite simple form of a red stripe in the same colours and a skull from the Imperial Knights transfer sheet (the tiny Adeptus Titanicus version!) AT transfers are a good source for heraldry – Knights have a great variety of badges and a lot of the AT houses are unusual for 40k, so you can steal their iconography quite freely. I did the same for the other two Veterans. The shields are a fun place to play around with different things – I particularly like the Veteran with a night-sky kind of heraldry with a star at the top, and then the symbol of House Makabius re-purposed as his personal crest. As you can see, the chapter icon is missing. I’m gonna use self-printed transfer for them, more about that in a future post. How to paint Sector Imperialis bases

Jack’s Method

This is as far as I’ve gotten with the box. Next up from me is most likely going to be the bikes, which I’m extremely excited for as they’ll bring a nice bit of mobility into my army. At this point I’m not expecting any of the remaining models to be substantially different to what I’ve already painted up; the Bladeguard are the most complicated units remaining and I’ll be approaching them very similarly to how I painted up my Captain and Lieutenant. Raf’s Method As with most of these how-to guides, this scheme is design with army painting in mind, so easy to replicate on multiple models, fast and efficient. Ochre Armor My yellow armor is painted fairly simply following a method from The Mighty Brush. I prime in tan, pre-shade with VMA Mud and Rust, add a highlight of Insignia White, then lightly airbrush layers of Medium Yellow over until I’m happy with the vibrance. I do some edge highlights with Phalanx Yellow and a pinwash of AK Paneliner for Sand and Desert to finish up the yellow, after which it gets weathered primarily by sponging Rhinox Hide.

To finish the cloak I just highlighted Zandri Dust with Ushabiti Bone, lightly blending them together on a wet palette. The belt is Rhinox Hide, highlighted with Reaper Tanned Leather (another super useful paint with multiple uses). My approach here was uncomplicated – the nice thing about Custodes is that they’re basically all the same, so I could just paint this guy like I’d paint any other golden boy. Adeptus Custodes Blade Champion. Credit: Corrode

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Along the edges of the sleeves and inner coat, paint small parallel lines of Skrag Brown. Then paint small random dots of Skrag Brown on the rest of the sleeves and inner coat. Be subtle, don’t be heavy handed. Other than that, the way I painted them is the same as all my other Crimson Fists, as per one of our very earliest HTPEs and extracted below for convenience:

It is not only Minotaurs who heed the call of the bloodgreed, for sometimes the Beastmen themselves will be swept up in the rush of primal instinct to fight and to feed. As bands of Minotaurs crash through the trees towards the settlements and fortifications of the civilized races, so groups of Gors and other Beastmen follow in their wake, consumed by the desire to wolf down the hot flesh of their enemies. [1c] http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf On the Eradicators, I wanted to do something a little different with their melta rifles. The barrels are painted Brass Scorpion, then Sycorax Bronze, washed Seraphim Sepia, and then some Brass Scorpion re-layered at the business end of the barrel. This is a lazy way to simulate the heat-staining effect you can see on the studio models. I did a similar thing on the engines for the Outrider’s bikes.

Liam’s Method

Consumed by bloodgreed, the Minotaurs lay waste to their prey in an orgy of slaughter, smashing through barricades and buildings alike to get at the still-living weaklings that cower within. The Doombull at the head of the horned army lowers his head and charges at full speed towards the leader of the enemy army, gouging his horns deep into the foe and maiming everything within reach with his axe. When all is laid to waste the Doombull gorges himself on the choicest of prey while his followers fight over the corpse-harvest at their feet. [1c] If there’s one thing in ample supply when it comes to an Uruk-hai army, it’s bodies – lots of them! Approximately 10,000 to be exact, but that might be a little overkill for the average collection…

Paint diagonal cross line patterns of Gorthor Brown on the bag shoulder strap and edges of the bag.

Discussion

Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, There is a lot more of this on your jetbikes. Here only the gauntlets are leather. I used VMC Cavalry brown, making sure to avoid the red cloth on the underside of his forearms and the gold detailing. I then washed the leather with Agrax Earthshade. Wash the reds with Nuln Oil to darken the robes down more than an Agrax or Carroburg Crimson wash would do. We want some deep rich colors to set off the pale white. If you’re not confident in layering the horse skin you can heavy drybrush Doombull Brown for step 2 and then light drybrush again for step 5. You won’t get as smooth a finish though. How to paint Tan Horses Skin