Enter Fenris Grey. Using just a bit of Fenris Grey and a healthy amount of Lahmian medium I make a light grey wash to apply all over the lion. It is very subtle but it makes for a cool ghostly ethereal vibe which works well for this warp-touched beast. I dont use any specific ratios, I just go on feel, adding a bit more grey for the mane areas, more Lahmian Medium on the body. Runefang Steel, Kantor Blue and Lahmian Medium are mixed together to create a metallic with a blue tinge. This is a thin mix that should go on in 2-3 coats. Paint this on as smooth as possible. If it’s lumpy all the imperfections will show on the shiny armour. Use an airbrush if possible, especially if you’re painting an army to save time.

Highlight with Evil Suns Scarlet. This can be a fairly transparent paint when thinned down, so I do two thin layers, one more of a general highlight and the other focusing on the tops of folds and the edges of the cloth. Apply some white paint to the centre of the brightest reflected areas e.g. uppermost raised creases in the cloth a line parallel to the arrow etc.. Step 4 / Final Stage Or if you’re going very extreme and doing two strong opposing colors you can do your whole model as if it’s being lit from two directions and give it a monochrome or duochrome effect: OSL: I like to use a fluoro green or blue to provide OSL effects to the wrist-band/vambrace comm-links Nomad models have. I do this by dropping pure white onto the lens/button, then a bright, high saturation green (Model Colour Green Fluorescent 70.737 or GW’s Tesseract Glow) on top of that. I do the OSL effect by blending the green with whatever colour the surface is painted, with less being more in these instances, and applying it to the surrounding area. Very carefully paint Ceramite White on the edges. Use the side of the brush to do this. Don’t forget the central edge of the blade. I can not stress how careful you need to be now. Don’t get any on the blends, becauseit’s really hard to tidy up a blended colour.Mix a touch of Kantor Blue into Teclis and paint that over the previous layer. Remember, paint along the length the of the sword for all these layers leaving some of the previous layer showing through. Wash with Agrax Earthshade. If you’re only doing a tiny area without any recesses such as a stripe on an armor, you can omit this step. It’s a flexible paint that may be used as a base color to give miniatures a variety of looks. It also serves as a suitable foundation for adding highlights and shadows afterwards. It’s also a fantastic option for beginners because it allows for good layering and color blending and can be used as a base coat or a highlight for a variety of miniatures. What armies to paint with Ulthuan Grey Add a little Tallarn Sand to the Steel Legion Drab and layer up, leaving the darker tan in the recesses

Apply over Averland Sunset for a neutral yellow, or use as a highlight for Averland Sunset, or an Orange colour. I recommend you paint the first to keep yourself motivated. You can re-attach the face once you’ve painted the top area of the model. Notice the brighter bits have a slightly lighter tint now (most clear on the arm and edge of plasma coil in this picture) Stage 5 / Final Stage – Minute 15-20 Add a little Cadian Fleshtone to the The Fang and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recesses These areas were then highlighted with Pallid Wych Flesh diluted with water (leave some of the previous layer of Rakarth Flesh showing).

So thats it guys! Thats my approach to painting white. I hope you found it helpful and that it took some of the mystique out this reputedly difficult process. I’m very happy with how it came out and they make a great exotic addition to my Corsair themed Eldar. If you need any tips or advice feel free to ask away in the comments section below, I’m always happy to talk painting. Lest step. Now I’m gonna do some very small edge highlights with my lightest color, which in this case is Reaper Ghost White, but in GW terms would be Ulthuan Grey. This is a light blue offwhite that gives me some extra shininess and really hammers home the effect. Tan and grey hard plastic figures: 6 mounted battalia commanders, 6 ensigns, 6 mounted cornets, 14 combined pike & shot regiments (80 soldiers each), 36 commanded shotte, 60 cavalry, 12 cuirassiers, 18 mounted dragoons, 30 dismounted dragoons, 6 Saker cannon and 6 Falconet light guns If you think this looks good enough as-is, hey you’re not wrong. I’ve done many models where I stopped at this stage – it’s great on plasma coils and depending on how your model is painted, this may be good enough. If you did this and want to stop here, go nuts. If you want to get a little extra for a real dynamite effect, however, it’s time to do some blending. Step 2: Wash Blending

If you’re looking to go even harder on this, the next step is to put a bit more work into your your shadow effects to increase the contrast, and to improve your blends on the lit areas. Contrast paints will generally work great on metallics and other lightly-colored areas, but the big challenge is that they can only darken those surfaces, so to get your best results you’ll need to do some actual blending to make those lit areas work. An example of this is the Ahriman I recently painted, where I needed to blend Baharroth blue and Screamer Pink on the robe to get the highlighted parts right. Instant Ork Skin: Death Guard, Biel Tan, 4:1:1 Lahmian Medium, Biel-Tan and Intermediate Green Glaze, highlight Intermediate Green + Yellow.

The Feathers

Tyler: I’ve always liked the models that came out during the Disciples of Tzeentch release, especially the Tzaangors and Kairic Acolytes . The Tzaangor Enlightened in particular have been a favourite of mine. Though I know the version on a disc is probably the best value for points, the idea of these hulking beasts plodding around on foot has always appealed to me. Some of the colors are different though... Ulthuan Grey is actually one of the examples where the old conversion was not very good - it had Ghost Grey, the new conversion from Vallejo has Glacier Grey instead.