The R1 act exactly like the normal hydraulic brakes, ie with double pistons, but the command is given by the cable. Is it time I get Juin Tech GT-F or am I digging a bigger hole in my wallet and should go full hydro? No had a chance to test it yet but just applying it in the garden nd it seemed to be a bit sharper than the Hayes, hopefuly I’ll get the rear fitted tomorrow and use them at the weekend. We previously tested Juin Tech's R1 brakes (you can read the review here) so were keen to take a look at their latest offering. only issue I have with them on initial install the pistons are pushing the pads to the disc rotor and its constantly rubbing when aligned, may have to break them in but the pistons are very tight even after adjusting the hand adjuster.

I have used the F1's with Sram levers as well, and while also quite good, the GT's are a step up in braking performance. They aren't able to tell you when it's going to be delivered but you can watch things unfold on the carrier's tracking page. The GT hybrid hydraulic disc brakes offer the stopping power and modulation of hydraulic disc brakes, but are cable-actuated, which means they are compatible with your existing rim brake shifters and groupset. The hydraulics are sealed units, so there's no messing about with syringes and brake fluid; no need to bleed the system, trim hoses, fit olives or any of the faff associated with setting up full hydraulic brakes.So saying – I’ll be treating the Tripster over the next few months with an upgrade to shimano full hydraulic / 11 speed, which I’m looking forward to. I currently run SRAM Red 10spd shifters with the Juin Tech F1s, Galfer rotors and Shimano resin pads on my gravel bike, excellent performers, to the point I have no intent to upgrade to hydro brakes. Give that it is a budget bike it was never going to make sense up dating to full hydros so the alternative seemed to be TRP HY/RD, however people seem to have mixed views on how well these run, so I was never 100% keen on these.

The brake calipers mount to the frame and forks using the provided bolts, pads are pre-fitted and the calipers connected to shifters using regular brake cables. I managed to get it spot on using some thin bits of cardboard stuffed up between the rotor and pad’s with brake on while i tightened each bolt a little at a time, as on my frame the caliper wanted to pull over to one side as i tightened the bolts.Still crave full hydraulics, but these are pretty much the best setup I’ve found if you need/want to retain cable actuation. Performance wise, i didn't really have anything to compare them too aside from my other bike which are fully mechanical disc brakes.

With summer on the wane and cyclocross (not to mention rainy commutes) on the horizon, cyclists' thoughts may be turning to disc brakes. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. I’ve been pondering a set as nothing in budget comes with full hydro brakes, so if these were adequate then at least I could upgrade to R685’s later and transfer the 5800 or whatever onto my road bike and upgrade that to 11s. Finally got round to fitting my set a week ago, had one ride on them so far and was impressed despite them being brand new and not really bedded in. The Juin tech F1/M1 hydraulic cable pull disc brake set offers a unique solution to the road/gravel/cyclocross/MTB rider wanting to upgrade from mechanical cable pull disc brakes.One of the socket set screws is by the actuating arm but at 90 degrees to it the other is on the end of the reseveoir by the J of Juin. I’ve run the Acor version of these on my hack/gravel/mooching about bike for around a month now, with Tiagra 10spd sti.