A good first impression, but let’s take a look at this in a direct comparison between old and new. I primed this test model at home with a coat of Corax White spray, which is a matt light grey primer. On the left side of the model, I apply the old Citadel Shade paints and on the right side the new versions. After everything is dry, here is the result: Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look). Thinned down glazes of Scalecolour FX Fluor Orange following these lines, pulling the paint towards the lantern, so the colour is strongest closer to the bulb itself. Feather the colour with a bit of water at the farthest extremes to create a soft gradient between the orange and non-orange colour, the gel medium of the Scalecolour paints really helps when it comes to blending it out like this. For the characters, I kept the same elements but reconfigured. The Primus is obviously quite similar to the Cultists, but the Magus trades some of the blue for his rich purple robes. Highlight armor and weapons with a VERY light drybrush of Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold (Focus near the top/front of these elements, the steel is not supposed to be shiny!

Fair enough, different strokes for different folks and all that. I find I'm pretty good at judging how much wash I need at a time and have a preference for dropper bottles so there's no issue there for me. If you do accidentally get a bit too much out of your bottle at least you had more to begin with There are three big elements here to consider: The skin/flesh, the tentacle bits, and the boils/pustules. For the most part, I tended to uniformly paint the pustules with a yellow shade – typically Averland Sunset with a dot of Flash Gitz Yellow as a highlight, before coating them in Nurgle’s Rot to give them a glossy, pussy look. If you want something less snot green, then ‘Ardcoat will work very well for this.The open sores and entrails are painted with a heavy coat of Contrast Blood Angels Red. I hit every part of the model that’s an open wound or has entrails leaking out. This is the base color, but we’re going to need to make this darker and add more variety. Here I experimented with some various Contrast colours over Runefang Steel Layer on the wings trying to find a new shimmering effect on the wings. I’ve tried Contrast Ork Flesh, Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, Contrast Magos Purple and Contrast Aethermatic Blue.

I also painted a Wargames Foundry soldier with an overcoat on using Games Workshop Nighthaunt Gloom to make it look like a spectral soldier. In Dracula’s America he’ll be a ‘Vengeful Shade’ that the necromancer can summon and send at the enemy posse.Basecoat any claws with Lupercal Green, shade with Coelia Greenshade, highlight with Sons of Horus Green With that dry, I threw on some Agrax Earthshade to tone down the brightness, also to darken the green in general. this still didn’t achieve the result I wanted. Bugger

I’m eyeing up some Darkoath next. The Warqueen, the Chieftain and the Warhammer Underworlds warband are the perfect size for a Skirmish warband – and a painting project! At the moment, GW’s new range of Shades and Contrast Paints are quite a hot topic amongst hobbyists. They claim to provide exceptional vibrancy and coverage, ultimately allowing painters to produce stunning results in a short amount of time. GW marketing pieces have shown off the intensity of these new colors, but mainly on a monochromatic “this is what this color looks like” basis. In this article we’ll look at a compilation of practical applications of the new Contrast Paints and various looks you can achieve with them. For the Grimdark…For the highlights I tend to use either the Scorpion green on its own or a mix of that and the Poisonous Cloud, depending how light the base coat is and how much contrast I want with it. I’ve also found that not fully mixing the two colors, or even not fully mixing one color if it has a few pigments, makes a fun little splotchy effect on the highlight. Again, this is the beauty of Nurgle – it doesn’t have to look perfect and polished. In fact, it’s better if it doesn’t! I drybrush that over the flesh of the sores. I’m also going to use Bugman’s Glow to paint all of the tentacle bits coming out of the Great Unclean One’s body in various spots. I’ll highlight the raw muscle with Bugman’s Glow as well. This is one where I am particular – PSYCHE I’M TOTALLY NOT. I use Army Painter Banshee Brown for most of the teeth and claws now because I found it and I like it. I am sure there are other off white or bone type colors, but I like this one. When I started painting I was using standard white, so there’s a mix of white and off white in my army, which is what I like anyway. I wash them with a nice Agrax and then highlight with some more white or Banshee brown. Nothing crazy. I use the same Banshee brown for any exposed bone as well.

These Age of Sigmar Deadwalker Zombies are for my Hyshian Gravelords. I wanted to go with a look of dried out leathery zombies, reminiscent of Moorliechen or bog bodies. I built up the flame effect with a thinned coat of VGC Livery Green [ Moot Green with a bit of white] and then Scorpy Green [ Moot Green], leaving the recesses white. As a Death Guard player, I am positively swimming in Poxwalkers–I have around 60 painted, not that I almost ever play close to that many. I may as well offer some examples of my zombie horde, powered by the magic of contrast and washes: In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. With Halloween fast approaching, we’re looking at how to paint the spookiest monsters around. In today’s HTPE, we’re looking at how to paint the legions of the walking dead. Specifically, zombies.However I have never found a GW wash that doesn't have it's equal (at the very least) in either P3, Army Painter or Secret Weapon's product line apart from Coelia Greenshade. The benefit of getting them from those other lines? More wash in the bottle, generally for less money with the same or better functionality as their GW equivalent. Lighten the Genestealer Flesh Mix with Pallid Wych Flesh (2:1) and layer carefully on raised areas. Grashrak’s Sewers: Straight out of the pot and over white, it makes a gorgeous walnut brown. Yet applied in metallic recesses it makes for a nice grimey oil streaked look as well. I could also see it being sponged on Nurgle forces for a disgusting sludge splatter (two words that should never be used together).