If I've gotten anything from this thread it's that both the CRC stuff and the Deoxit products work well. But I would always clean with something non-residue first, then use deoxit. Again, this was not a hit piece. I like DeOxIt. I use it because I can’t buy Mil-C-81309. But it isn’t what most people thinks that it is. I parlayed that into a job with a place called NAESU where I was a Tech Rep assisgned to the Materials Science Program. During both tenures I either had access to a lab or the greatest minds in the DOD Materials Science Program. Corrosion Control costs the government billions annually in the DOD and particularly the Navy. Airplanes landing on carriers and such. High stresses in highly salt environments. Some of the smartest scientists I ever met were in the DOD Materials Science program. These days the spray is a light hydrocarbon. The "flush" part used to be a Chlorocarbon which was a bit more effective, but I've certainly seen it lift corrosion. I can clean the bird poop off my car with 400 wet and dry too. Doesn't mean it's the right tool for the job.

I also know that to test products we put them in a salt fog booth then take aircraft aluminum’s and scratch X’s into them, then treat the metal then place it in the booth. I can unequivocally state that DeOxIt is NOT AS GOOD as Mil-Spec Corrosion Preventative Compound (Mil-PRF-81309) because I’ve tested it in salt fog booths myself. It just isn’t as good. But Naptha is a good cleaner and a bit of a lubricant and of course depending on what the mystery 5% is maybe a really good lubricant.

Specifications

So I can’t say for sure DeOxIt has a barium inhibitor in it but I bet it is an inhibitor of some kind. As far as converting oxides on metal you need an acid for that. It can’t be an acid in DeOxit because then it couldn’t be listed as a “Trade Secret” because by law “Trade Secret” stuff can’t be hazardous. Stuff like phenolic acid and chromic acid is hazardous.

For the record I use Deoxit but I tend to use the 100% liquid, a bit of a soak then a rub with a q-tip and then a flush with IPA. My little 7.4ml bottle has about 1/3rd left and it has seen a *lot* of use over the last 7 years. I suppose I should buy some more. Over the weekend, my buddy asked me to tag along on a visit to a local tech. This guy was repairing my friend's Crown DC300A. When we arrived he was finishing up a Marshall guitar amp head. The guy fixed the Crown. He replaced 3 or 4 output transistors that had shorted out. There was still a bit of static when turning one of the gain pots. My friend said that he used Deoxit and the static cleared up, only to have it reappear after the tech repaired the amp. If he's been using it for years with no issues that's great, but I am also looking for the "cringe" emoticon. I use WD40 to lube my 9mm (which makes gun nuts cringe for some reason) and it's been shooting perfectly well for over 10 years. But WD40 for electronics, probably only as an emergency field measure in a professional setting. Like if I was producing a live-shot and the pots on the portable mixer started acting up. The point it, I wouldn't use it at home either. Improves connector performance/reliability. Temperature range: -34 to +200oC. Spray, adjustable valve (L-M-H) – Flushing Action, and Safe on Plastics. DeoxIT7 D100L concentrate has approximately 20% chemical cleaning action. Excellent cleaning/deoxidizing, good protection, no ozone depletion.

Special Notification:

Therefore, we have assembled a De-Oxit maintenance kit that will provide years of service and help to keep your hi-fi and AV plugs and connectors in pristine condition. If DeOxit makes your bulb in your flashlight seemingly brighter, just try the same experiment with lighter fluid and bear in mind you have added an electrolyte solution to an electrical circuit which can make it conduct better.