Rit recommends using twice the usual recommended amount of dye for the weight of your fabric, and doubling the recommended time it spends in the dye bath, as well as using the post-dye Color-Stay Dye Fixative. Supplies: You may notice some color running the first time you wash a garment dyed with these dyes, but this is most frequently because the post-dye washout wasn’t thorough enough. Be sure that when you wash out the dye, you keep going until the water runs clear! This will limit the risk that a freshly dyed item may accidentally stain something else that it’s washed with.

Be sure to rinse your coat after dyeing thoroughly. To dry, lay your coat out flat on a towel, then roll the towel up into a towel-snake. Roll this towel-snake up again into a little spiral, and squeeze it (or kneel on it!) to extract excess water. I call this the cinnamon roll method. It’s useful for items that are too delicate to wring. Once you’ve cinnamon rolled your coat, you can either lay it on a fresh towel to dry or hang it on a hanger – it shouldn’t be dripping wet at this point. Keep it out of direct sunlight while it dries.

You can do this a little more successfully by mixing the acrylic pigment with a fabric medium. This is an additive that’s designed to provide flexibility and elasticity so that the concrete-like finish is eliminated. However, the fabric’s “hand” – that is, the way the fabric feels to touch – will be permanently altered by the acrylic, and depending on the fabric the level of permanence varies.

By extending the pigment slightly, you can blend it into the surrounding fabric and make the repair less noticeable. Just be careful not to overdo it and make the area look too dark or unnatural. Blend the pigment gently with a finger or brush In a perfect world, all your dye projects would be permanent, wash-fast, and live a long and vibrant life – but of course, sometimes there are snags. Fiber-reactive and acid dyes both chemically bond to the fibers they’re designed to dye, so these dyes will yield a permanent color on your fabric. However, years of regular washing and wearing will fade even the strongest of dyes, so the definition of ‘permanent’ in this case is still relative. Store your dyed items away from direct sunlight and wash them in cooler water in your washing machine to prolong their life. Weigh the item you’re dyeing and write down its total dry weight. Step 3: Calculate how much dye you need To prevent the fabric pen from bleeding through to the other side of the garment, place a sheet of paper or cardboard inside the affected area. This will act as a barrier and absorb any excess ink, ensuring that the color stays where it’s supposed to. Use short, directional strokes to build up color Once you have finished applying the dye, inspect the stained area to see if it has been fully covered. If not, you may need to repeat the dyeing process or apply the dye directly to the stained area with a brush. With a little patience and effort, your garment will look as good as new! Let the Dye Set

Tips and Tricks for Using Fabric Pens on Bleach Stains

To assess the damage, examine the fabric in a well-lit area. Look for any areas where the fabric has turned white or lighter in color than the surrounding areas. You may also notice that the affected areas are lighter in texture or feel thinner than the rest of the fabric. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific pen you have chosen. Heat set with an iron on medium heat When applying the fabric pen, use short, directional strokes to build up the color gradually. This technique will help you achieve a more natural-looking result. Start by lightly coloring the edges of the bleach stain and then work your way towards the center, blending the color as you go. Apply a second coat for stubborn stains Dye activator: Citric Acid or White Vinegar (from your local supermarket, both work equally well) for protein fibers, or Salt and Soda Ash for cellulose fibers.