Moustache Original 1949 (the new one up there) is - and I'll send this ahead - from my point of view well done. Like its predecessor, the fragrance is consistently bergamot citrus, powdery (musk), has further discreet floral undertones and also a herbaceous component (in the old one, basil was explicitly mentioned as a herbaceous clay, which was also well imaginable, and lavender, in the new one in 1949 it is only lavender, but this can be due to a shortened presentation of the ingredients). In the old Moustache the sweet animal note was conspicuous, which I always put on the honey (missing in this version) and the musk. This was avoided with the contemporary moustache, which was certainly a wise decision, because a rogue who had at that time obvious associations with the yellow liquid. Moustache was a marking male at that time, nowadays he is masculine, but he wears a hipster mustache. Is that bad? No, it isn't, because I now believe that many vintage fragrances, as much as I loved them then (and now), would seem out of place among contemporaries. That's what a true lover of old scents says. Style or nothing! What matters is cutting a fine figure, the famous beautiful drape of the clothes. Rochas invented the basque, designed the mermaid evening gown, liberated women’s bodies with his ¾ coats and square shoulders, and created the Bird dress inspired by the artists of his day. Timeless classics that the couturier reinvented for every season. I can only imagine what life in France must’ve been like only a few years following the second world war when the original Moustache was perfumed, but there’s a small part of me that feels hopeful whenever I smell this scent - like things are looking up, or that a brighter dawn is just on the horizon - timeless beauty perhaps, or the cover of a fresh book that promises an exciting, yet comforting adventure. Whether or not that was Roudnitska’s original vision is beyond me, but I’m certain that everyone could use a bit more of that sentiment nowadays. As far as the silage is concerned, the fragrance plays this strength out wonderfully, especially in the heart note and in the transition to the base. The pleasant woody note, combined with a slow onset of sweetness, ensures that one leaves a sufficient and perceptible, but never oppressive scent trail. Only the pepper in the top note might cause a short twitching of the nose for some, but for all the others it should be long gone because of its short presence. In the base note, and thus at the end of its life, "Moustache" becomes a very tight "skin-scent", so it is hardly noticeable except for the person wearing it and very close other people.

In the meantime, the fragrance is with me and I compare it with the actual original from 1949. Can that go well? Opening with a good pinch of pink pepper, the fragrance does not convey the tangerine as prominently and sweetly as Chanel's "Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême", but I think I can at least imagine that it tames and tames the scent of pepper a little. Other scents, which also carry the pink pepper in the top note, seem much stronger to me. All in all, the top note lasts only a few minutes, but then merges relatively unnoticed into the heart note and should therefore not disturb anyone. The fragrance must certainly be placed in the context of 1949, when Thérèsa and Edmond Roudnitska created the original fragrance. As far as I know in Grasse. Thanks to the rather moderate sweetness of this fragrance and the generally rather reserved projection (the topic "spraying over" is not considered here), "Moustache" can be used wonderfully in leisure time, as well as in the office or similar locations. It can also be used in different seasons (which I don't believe in anyway - you will never complain about a good scent because of the weather). If at all applies: the warmer, the less sprays should be used because of the sweetness.

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Although "Habit Rouge" and "Noir" use different palettes of aromas, the three have in common that they radiate something slightly aristocratic, almost decadent, but without the force or penetrance of many an oppressive oriental.

Looking at the review score this should be 100% positive currently since the only neutrals are due to to simply being confused between the retro-citrus EDT which this isn't and it deserves to be reviewed on it's own merits. As I already wrote in my statement, the heart note - to my mind - is very similar to the heart note of Givenchy's "Gentlemen Only" from 2013, both of which are made mostly of cedar, but have completely different accompanying fabrics around them. While Givenchy's vetiver gives the fragrance a rather pungent wood note, the rose used in "Moustache" makes it rounder and softer. It's as if you were smelling the same piece of wood, but with "Moustache" you smell it from a greater distance, which makes the impression less oppressive but more coherent. The scent of cedar is still part of the base note for a while, but the heart note leaves the skin after about 1.5 - 2 hours. Overall, despite its popular reputation as a lemony fragrance, Moustache edt is anything but. In fact, it’s predominantly a soft and gentlemanly lavender for most of its life, if not for the first half hour where nearly all of the magic happens. From the massive blast of honeyed lemon, to the strange funk, soft violet and beautiful lavender drydown, it’s quite a journey to take in such a short period of time; yet frankly an absolute joy to experience. Kind of like life.What a 'grower' the EDP is! It's so impressive when a fragrance keeps enchanting you more and more as you get to know it through multiple wears. There is an amazing bright effervescence upon spraying that feels 'carbonated' yet doesn't smell like any particular beverage, not cola, root beer, Dr. Pepper...that I can recognize specifically but it is utterly addicting. At the age of only 23, Marcel Rochas opened his couture house on Place Beauvau in Paris in 1925, before moving to Rue Matignon in 1931. The couturier brought the fresh breath of youth to haute couture. He built the wardrobe of the emancipated Parisian woman in the post-war years, whilst also creating perfumes that reflected a love affair with elegance and freedom.

Of course this is not really possible, because Moustache from 1949 was also reworked several times, tamed (the original version is said to have been more animalistic than the variant in the angular matt bottle with the unambiguous dark yellow liquid): there is no real reference. In addition, even the last version of Moustache available on the market has usually been on the lid for several years, which means that an ageing process with scent can no longer be ruled out. This also seems to be the case with my moustache water from the early 2000s. Nevertheless, a comparison with caution and limited validity is possible in my opinion. So...this small detail out of the way, I have now fixed the following five criteria before my evaluation: Scent, silage, performance, bottle, application and priceAfter the Second World War, Europe was still in the process of reconstruction. Nevertheless, fragrances had always been created and sold during and after the war. Cultiveness, style and the joy of perfume survive every brutalization. The price performance I find even more outstanding, usually you have to reformulate the BUNKERN, because Rochas as with the "Rochas Man" but like once.

The peoples of Europe still suspected each other and one was still far away from the European Coal and Steel Community or even a European Union. So who is "Moustache" the right scent for? In any case, you shouldn't expect a loud market crier who also casts a spell over the environment with his uniqueness. Even a fragrance that covers most of the Contrary to initial expectations, the sweetness of the fragrance is subtly restrained even in the base note with its patchouli and the vanilla-like scent of the benzoin it contains. Yes, "Moustache" certainly ends in several sweetish variants, but at no point does it seem overloaded with this sweetness, as the remaining cedar - even if only faintly perceptible - restrains it at all times. And in this way the scent remains without any further development before it finally leaves the skin after another 2-3 hours or so.

If there's one thing you can't blame "Moustache" for, it's probably its excellent pricing policy or the grandiose relationship between high-quality fragrance, bottle size and price. This 2018 recreation of Moustache Original 1949 is indeed a musty lemon citrus opening that by description is accurate but doesn't really explain the experience. It was the third wear that I felt the magic, the lemon citrus opening was surprisingly alluring and I kept adding sprays over a few hours to fully experience it from the top again, and again. It settles into a comfy patchouli, moss, and musk base which is nice as well. As the top musty brightness settles down this could work in the office but I don't plan on doing so. It's a great around the house/yard classic citrus for me and I plan to reach for it plenty over the spring and summer particularly.