Almost all cheap airbrushes come with this type of nozzle. But mind you, even some of the most expensive Iwata airbrushes utilize these as well. But of course, they are much better engineered. Self-centering nozzles The other addition that this airbrush trigger has is the curved edge. This simple addition is incredible. Not only in how it helps you control the needle better even though you may naturally apply more force. But once you use it, this change (which is only available on this airbrush) is so deviously obvious. On the bottom of the body, there’s a mac valve. This can be used to make fine adjustments to the air pressure.

It’s worth noting that this is a full teardown (bar one little unscrewable piece which is still in the body here, and I only realised existed after I broke my airbrush after not correctly cleaning enamel pains out of it.) Airbrushes come in two basic types. An airbrush can either single or double action. The difference lies in the paint delivery mechanism. Single-Action Airbrush he clearly states that the new trigger design is an "improvement on precision" but this is only "20% of his total design improvements!" ( so much for H&S offering "intelligent functions and ergonomic excellence" then!) When choosing an airbrush, you should consider several factors. Some of them are very important, others less so. Let’s have look at them now. Control TypeEven using a cheap airbrush will result in a much better finish than you’d ever be able to achieve with a paintbrush. Of course, there are some downsides as well and obviously, the airbrush will require further investments, because it will not work without a compressor. Technically you could use bottles of compressed air, but a compressor is a better long-time solution. he then states that his trigger "allows you to place your finger properly" and then goes on to show how easily your finger slips off the original trigger but his design rectify's that! Needle/Nozzle: ok, ignore the image above here. the nose on the Crplus I’ve shown is actually from my Evolution Airbrush and I swapped it out to get me out of a jam. The actual nose is identical on both units. However.

One of the features, that I particularly like about the airbrush, is the micro air control valve. There’s basically a small screw at the bottom of the body, which allows you to fine-tune the air pressure. It’s kinda like that. Look, it just works and if that’s not a clear enough explanation then… It’s done with magic If you are just starting out, I would probably go for an airbrush with a nozzle size that can handle both reasonably well. 0.3 or 0.35mm nozzle is a pretty solid choice. You can then add a smaller or larger nozzle to your arsenal as your skills progress. These nozzles are usually tiny and must be screwed onto the airbrush. I have to say I am not a huge fan of these. Tighten it too much and you can damage the nozzle or make it sit off-center hampering the atomization and the spray pattern of the paint. Making it too loose comes with other problems as well.Gravity-fed airbrushes feature a paint cup that’s sitting at the top of the airbrush’s body. The paint flows into the mixing chamber freely thanks to gravity. The paint cups can vary in size and some airbrushes even allow you to change the cups based on your current needs. Other airbrushes have fixed paint cups. Siphon-Fed Airbrush he points out the original trigger is not vertical and his design rectify's that. ( does that mean the original was not designed well?) On the other hand, if you are building aircraft models like the German propeller fighters of WW2, you might want to choose something smaller – like 0.2mm. It is also equipped with a non-removable 10ml paint cup, which is a tad too large for my needs, but it’s not a big problem. A paint cup lid is also included.