Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates. Regular drills and rotary tools have high RPM that creates too much plastic-melting friction… This drill is just right for the job at hand.

The wiskers is drill swarf from the port holes, I've used Porthole Jiggs from Nigels Modeling Benc to drill pilot holes on all the ones that are to be drilled. The talented digital artist Vasilije Ristovic’ also shows this type of rudder anode in his stunning 3D illustration: Can you name a ship more famous than the Titanic? Probably not, right? The RMS Titanic is easily the most famous passenger liner ever built. Unfortunately, it’s so famous because it sank on its maiden voyage, causing the death of more than 1500 passengers and crew members.This service does not deliver on a Saturday or Sunday. If you would like Saturday delivery please call us on 01782 409310. Has anyone formed a build strategy for their's yet? wait for more AM, or do you have any other kit mods planned? ... diorama's even.

So, is this the perfect Titanic kit? Nope, it’s not, it’s got its share of problems such as some overscale and oversimplified details, but it goes together well. And of course, if you want to bring it to a new level, you can always get some aftermarket accessories. I’m not drilling all those holes with a pin vise… no way. Here is a critical tool that I’ve had in my toolkit for a few years – a small Tamiya battery powered drill designed with plastic in mind: I decided to start a build log for this project after tinkering around a bit with the kit across the past year or so. I’ve hesitated because I know that there are many passionate folks out there who scrutinize every aspect of the great ship and can be very strong minded about the myriad details in play. I will make plain my intention to do justice to Titanic but will likely fall short on complete historic exactitude… Especially considering that the ground is constantly moving as scholars and enthusiasts refine our understanding of the ship’s details.Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates. I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square. The remaining holes were easily finished off and everything looks good… I’ll proceed to the next largest portholes in my next session. Some additional hull details need to be attended to, but I can’t put off drilling out the portholes forever… Later took my Sister through to Inverness to see its 3D release, she has led a very hard life with a very Autistic son, she needed a treat ... it was mid week and we were only two in that Cinema for its final day there ... quite cool really. For those who can stomach Facebook, there are several terrific resources utilized by the Titanic community:

These Ash Places and their outer doors were not symmetrical between port and starboard. Trumpeter got that right. The doors are in the right spots on either side, but inexplicably they’ve added a third narrow door on the port side that leads to a phantom Ash Place. Finally, I added .010 x .030 strips to represent the butt laps between strakes. I thought this would match closer to the kit versions. Overlapping the styrene strakes (as in actual practice) seemed to me to be out of scale no matter how hard I tried to make them look like the Trumpeter versions. I won’t go through the history of the Titanic here as there are multiple resources both on the internet, in books and on the TV that tell the tragic story of this ship. The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard. I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.But the "instructions" for the upgrade set seem more like suggestions. With some study, I think I've found my path thru this build. In this view by photographer Robert John Welch, we see that the bolts are now encased in cement (note the lighter color on the outer edges) to streamline the water flow over the rudder surface.

These were carefully positioned in relation to the pintles according to the historic photo references. Note that the last flange is set slightly BELOW the last pintle. The overhangs were trimmed to fit and the whole process repeated for the other side. Using small diameter lengths of rod, I created as closely as the scale would permit, the wooden divisions, doors and window frames. Upon seeing the end of the film that first time, sat through all the credits and when the lights went up, saw some amazing stuff, people were visibly moved from all ages, young and old, one older lady and younger lady were holding each other as the older lady audibly and visibly cried ... Mother and Daughter I assumed? ... upon walking to exit, lots of people were murmuring, that was excellent and other such good praises ... and I couldn't agree more. I agree with your view on build log formatting... I don't think Facebook and other similar forums lend themselves to laying out a log. The MSW type of environment is best since everything is laid out in one place and others can easily follow the progression and improve on my approach (and mistakes). It allows everyone to see a cohesive narrative and get context on the WHAT, WHY, HOW questions that inform my build. I plan to do both promenades, the Cafe Parisian, a couple of the dining areas and possible the entrance areas around the fore and aft staircases.

(with LED's)

Titanic was a beautiful ship. Her lines were clean and graceful, and she sat on the sea with genuine stature. I think Trumpeter has done a very reasonable job in reflecting all of that in their one-piece hull. The window frames fit very exactly into the frames. Now I just have to figure how to get the "glass" cut. I may try to use my wife's Cameo cutter. I did have to refer to the other plastic pieces that would be around these and adjusted their final placement.