Total distance should be radically reduced anyway, and there should be no turns apart from necessary ones, into the fan and out of the house, although I am thinking to mitigate at least the one out of the house by just using a 45 degree elbow, and then cutting the pipe going out at an angle to give a flat exit if that makes sense. Easy installation and maintenance - Fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using specially designed construction Times I have been up in the loft, I can feel by weight and noise that a lot of water sits in the ducting, far from ideal. Operating at a maximum of just 24dB(A) and with a compact design, MF100S is ideal for applications where installation and extraction needs to be powerful yet discreet. Fan performance is generally quoted with the fan mounted in free space, with no ducting. The performance degrades rapidly as restrictions to flow are added, the worst thing being the stretchy 4” duct. Not only does it have not much area, but all those ribs create turbulence that further restricts the effective area. And the grills are often restrictive too, especially after a few years of use when the insect grills in them will be clogged up with fluff.

He put the vent in the middle of the bathroom, instead of above the shower, and has placed the fan a decent distance away from the actual vent hole in the ceiling, and then ducted to the side of the house - he's also used (to much) flexible ducting........ watts power consumption (low / mid / high speeds). 50 / 60 / 68 litres per second / 180 / 216 / 245 cubic metres per hour extraction rate (low / mid / high speeds) The Manrose MF100T is a powerful inline extractor fan which is ductable up to 12m. An inline fan is installed in the loft or ceiling void above the bathroom (or kitchen etc). Ducting is attached to each end of the fan with one length going to an internal grille in the ceiling of the bathroom and the other going to a grille on the external wall, soffit or roof.

Manrose MF100S Features

We've always been dissapointed with the performance, especially after he told us it was overkill, and we've put it on maximum timer and maximum speed.

Silent operation - Noise is reduced due to the extractor fan being installed in ceiling voids or in the loft Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed constructionGenuine Manrose branded product. High quality ball bearing, long life motor, continuously rated and warranted for a minimum of 30,000 hours or 3 years Designed to produce higher working pressures for applications that require high air flows, with low relative noise. Suitable for long duct runs up to 12m. Suitable for mounting in lofts or ceiling voids and for use in applications such as bathrooms, shower rooms, kitchens and more Looking at the gap approaching the eaves, it would seem it is too narrow to take round pipe, the previous fitter just kind of stuffed the flexible pipe down there, so I think I will have to run 125mm pipe from the fan, and then annoyingly switch to a rectangular style with a convertor to enable it to get through the eaves and down to the soffit.

The isolator switch works, which is a bonus, the electrics at the top had no water ingress or moisture inside. And re-visiting my mention of the bigger more beefy fans, would it be wise/sensible to go for 150mm ducting and then use a reducer if I can resurrect the current 100T.

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Class II - double insulation - no earth required. Fully building code compliant. Fully BEAB approved Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed construction. This particular model; the MF100T, features an over-run timer that keeps the fan running for a period of up to 20 minutes (set upon installation), after power off, to ensure all moisture or stale air is extracted. Had already had an idea to slope the ducting down and out of the house, so pleased to see that is mentioned above.

I haven't investigated at all yet, but one thing he did fit is an isolator switch for the fan, so that will make working on it easier. The Manrose 4 inch inline fan provides a high extraction rate whilst keeping noise to a minimum. The mixed flow created by the twin blades enables the fan to pull more air than a conventional extractor fan making it ideal for use in bathrooms and other areas of high humidity. We're also thinking about cutting a new hole in the ceiling (Filling and patching up the old one) where we actually want it, and then common sense would tell me that it would make sense to have the fan on the nearest joists on the way to the outside - I think we would swap to the front soffit as that is the closest by some margin. We have a small bathroom, big standard 1930's one, so do you think the 100T when ducted properly should be sufficient?MF100S benefits from 3 speed settings which can be set via dip-switch at installation. This allows the fan to operate at an appropriate rate for user requirements. The only negative I can see might be noise, in that the fan will be directly above the shower (Currently it is above the landing cupboard), BUT while the shower is on you won't hear it, and hopefully if it's way more efficient I won't need to have the timer at max for 25 minutes, perhaps 10 would do. hope you don't mind me resurrecting an old thread, but I have an MF100T that has just stopped working. With regards to joining the ducting, is duct tape sufficient, or should I be looking at some kind of adhesive for a better longer lasting fit?