MORTICE gauge, Thumbscrew Slide, Head faced with Brass.’ 68 shillings per dozen in 1844. [Shown below] Full Boxwood. Instead of a wooden fence and stem, they feature a precision-crafted metal rod and ring. Instead of a pin or knife at the end of the stem, they feature a round cutting blade.

For mortise gauges, the best setup is with the pins filed at mirrored angles. However, this also means you’ll need two separate mortise gauges for marking mortises and marking tenons. You can see why woodworkers tend to have so many! Replacing marking gauge pins Rosewood[?] with Boxwood Head Screw with both Head and Stem Brass ‘Faced’. If it were Ebony it would be #474 c.1873 Below is another #2120 showing Phillips head screws throughout and more curvature to the Top and Bottom edges than previously seen.. Conventional marking gauges are the ones described above, using a pin to score the surface of your workpiece. They’re simple, cheap, long-lasting, and easy to find. A single combination marking gauge covers such a massive variety of joinery work for such a small investment that you have no excuse not to have one. What is a cutting gauge? below] is a Cutting Gauge that I can only find in the 1909 Catalogue, so it may have been short lived.

Japanese marking gauges, or keshiki, are slightly different than their western counterparts. The basic shape and outcome is the same, but there are a few key elements that make them unique. Measuring tool, 2 pcs: Prism guage accurately measures grass heights on greens. Separate tool to measure HOC on fairways, roughs or semi-roughs.

Having being unable to give a number to these 2 full Boxwood gauges, I am tending to assume that maybe [unless specified differently] ALL the very early gauges were made in Boxwood, and therefore why need to mention it in the listings! These 2 are obviously very early as shown by the ‘fancy’ brass inlays around the head securing bolt. In fact, it’s one of the best tool making projects for beginning woodworkers. It can be built with just a few tools using scrap wood that you have lying around the workshop. Green speed meter: Measure green speed using the standardized ball roll measurement method (USGA specification) Here below is a Rosewood, ‘plated’ with Brass Thumbscrew slide. Non-fancy Head. Still trying to identify it!!Despite the affordable price, the gauge itself has some excellent bonus features. There are two flats in the fence to prevent it from rolling, solving a problem that even expensive models suffer from. Whether you bought one of the best marking gauges recommended above or have an antique, you’ll want to sharpen the pins before using it on any major projects. These conveniences come at a cost, however, as they tend to be much heavier than wooden models. The fence is also typically round, so there is a danger of it rolling off of your workbench if you’re not careful. Unlike the ordinary marking gauge whose steel scribing pin is designed to mark along the grain, the cutting gauge is equipped with a cutting spur, which when properly ground and honed, severs cross-grain fibers cleanly. Used across the grain, the marking gauge can tear the wood and produce a ragged line, but the cutting gauge incises a neat, clearly visible cut, just the right thing to accept the edge of a sharp chisel when paring away the last bit of end-grain tissue.

The fence of a cutting gauge is used to hold a measurement. It can be moved along the gauge’s stem and secured in place using the thumb screw. A cutting gauge is a marking gauge with a knife instead of a pin. Basically, the theory behind this distinction is that cutting across grain with a knife is better than using a pin. A panel gauge is basically a long marking gauge with a beam that can go from a foot to several feet long, depending on the application. Which of the following cutting tools is used for cutting wood? Here below is another Marking Gauge that I cannot positively identify . In the 1888 Cat. it is shown as ‘London-pattern’ Oval Head Beech gauge with [Boxwood] Wedge [ #635]. [shown immediately below] But no mention is made of a Boxwood version. Gauge #2092. Rosewood with Boxwood Thumbscrew, Brass Hooped. Was available as #640 in 1888 Cat. and in 1909[#2092] but was not listed in 1921 [dropped in WW1?] but again is listed in 1928, but no further.The tool is set on the selected cut grass. The length of the grass can then be read off from the metric scale.

Groomer Gage (Metric): Solid and precise instrument for accurately setting the desired grooming depth of groomer or verticutting units. By using a knife it can also cut through thin veneers. It is important that the knife tip is kept sharp to make an accurate marking. On all quality Gauges which had a metal screw or thumbscrew to secure the Head, there was always an indentation at the inner thread end of the head to encompass a ‘keeper’ and so that the keeper could lie level to enable the shaft to be inserted. If you plan to do any type of woodworking with hand tools, you absolutely need at least one marking gauge. Power tool-focused builders might be able to do without one, but it’s still a useful addition to just about any toolbox. Below are 2 ‘ Improved Mortice Gauges with Improved Stems‘ showing the Anchor Mark [ 1838-1859]. The stems are 6.3/8″ long and the gauges are identical except one is Ebony and the other is Boxwood. Note the Round escutcheon plate rather than the earlier ’round plate with ears’.Placing the TurfChek I on the overlap between two runs, or two units, allows you to ensure the height of cut is consistent. If you have a sizeable collection of marking gauges and want to dedicate them to specific tasks, you should try sharpening them to be completely flat on one side. This way, one wall of your scribed lines will be perpendicular to the surface, producing even cleaner results that approach those of a cutting gauge. Like all of the best marking gauges, it holds its setting firmly and cuts a clean line. What sets this one apart is a touch of luxury.