Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis. Asiaticoside was shown to increase antioxidant levels on rats skin when applied at 0.2%.

As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly haveonly the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EACthoughis skin brightening. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin.Whichever retinoid serum you choose, start with a low dose of around 0.2% and increase the strength slowly, as side effects like tingling and flakiness are common. Water– Plain old water. Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Don’t mix retinol with AHAs or BHAs because using too many active ingredients, too frequently, can spark sensitivity. For this reason, also be careful if using a cleanser with actives.

Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection. Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead bySteven Q. Wang, MD, director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre.Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. If you want to use both retinol and brightening vitamin C in your skincare routine, apply the latter ingredient in the morning to give your skin a breather. Some brands do blend the two together, but these products have been carefully formulated to not cause irritation, so don't take a DIY approach. How we test retinoid serums With over five years’ experience in beauty and health journalism, Florence has written for ELLE, Women’s Fitness, Sister Magazine, National Geographic Traveller and many more, with a strong sustainability angle thread through much of her work. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central rolein the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier.LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). When it comes to cosmetic oils and hype, argan oil is for sure leading the way. Dubbed as the " liquid gold of Morocco", we have to admit we have some trouble determining why this oil enjoys such a special miracle status. Not that it's not good, it is good, even greatbut reading the research about argan and a bunch of other plant oils we just do not see the big, unique differentiating factor (though that might be our fault not reading enough, obvs.)

Depending on the concentration and formulation, retinol is generally a milder choice than retinal. This is because it takes longer to convert to the most potent retinoic acid in your skin, reducing the risk of irritation. Experienced retinol users, however, may prefer the faster results of retinal. Retinoids can cause burning, stinging and peeling when first applied,” says Dr Mahto. “Build up their use slowly – a few times weekly – until you are able to use them nightly. If the product makes your skin sore, give it a break; if not, you are OK to continue using it.

Moisturising hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help to lessen the severity of retinol side effects. However, Dr Mahto recommends waiting 15 to 20 minutes after applying your retinol serum before applying your chosen moisturiser, so as not to minimise the retinoid's efficacy. What can you not mix with retinol? Dr. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitatehere. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showingRP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. Ascorbic acid is generally compatible with other ingredients. However, using ascorbic acid with other active ingredients might cause irritation. Two ingredients: copper ions and benzoyl peroxide, will inactivate ascorbic acid completely. Speak to a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or an underlying inflammatory skin condition, such as eczema, psoriasis or rosacea, as retinoids can potentially cause problems.” Below, you’ll find products with 0.15% retinoid for beginners, through to 1% blends for more experienced users. Is it okay to use retinol every night?

So, argan oil comes from the kernel of the argan fruit that comes from the argan tree that grows only in Morocco. The tree is slow growingand getting the oil is a hard job. The traditional process is that the ripe argan fruits fallfrom the tree, then goats eat them up and poop out the seeds. The seedsare collected and smashed with a stone to get the kernels inside. This part is the hard one as the seeds have extremely hard shells. Once the kernels are obtained, the oil is pressed out from them (the kernels contain about 50% oil). Vitamin C is also a key component in helping your skin regulate collagen, thus making it effective in improving wrinkles and fine lines. As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. These antioxidants also protect skin against UV damage.

First-timers and those with sensitive skin may wish to try a gentler retinyl ester – look for retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate in the ingredients list. What is the best retinol for beginners?