For applications according to the Marine Equipment Directive, the maximum wet application quantity is 3 x 120 µm. Dries clear to a flexible, non-tacky, hard surface, increases brightness and color saturation, adjusts and unifies surface sheen and improves surface durability. Floorcloths are a difficult problem for acrylic paints as they won’t stand up to much physical abuse. Seal your acrylic work with a transparent, high gloss acrylic layer which is breathable, permanent and protects against UV damage. If you don’t care about removability just go the whole hog and use polyurethane varnish, it’s very tough, much cheaper than picture varnishes and available in water- and spirit-soluble varieties.

Our varnishes offer physical protection from knocks and dirt, plus an extra layer of UV-light protection.Depending on your style and technique, there are a wide range of traditional oils, mediums, and solvents to help you control your colour as well as varnishes to protect your work and provide a final finish. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Each brushstroke should slightly overlap the previous so that you don’t leave thin spots or narrow bands uncovered but if these do occur don’t overwork the surface trying to rectify it, leave it for the next coat to even out. For certain works glossy finishes just don’t look ‘right’, so matt or nearly matt might be most appropriate; I often think that small paintings look a little odd when too glossy for example, the gloss seems out of scale with the work somehow, so size might be a deciding factor also.

It’s best to use a specialist varnish brush but any wide, flat brush of the right length can be used as long as the bristles are not too soft; hog bristle is probably best but there are good synthetic options. Yes, you can mix our High Gloss, Gloss, Satin and Matte Varnishes to create your perfect level of sheen. A thick coat will take longer to dry, may dry cloudy, may drip or sag during application and has a greater chance of showing brush strokes when dry.Two or three coats is usually sufficient, with each each successive layer applied at right angles to the one before.

The products themselves would give you a good idea of their suitability for a given use/reversibility and if you want to take the time to contact the manufacturers (in case the ingredients are not clearly identified) they can be quite helpful. Hold the brush at a shallow angle to the surface when applying varnish, not upright as you might do when painting, so that you’re laying a coat of finish on the surface of the work with most of the length of the bristles, rather than brushing it on with the tip as normal. Liquitex has some specific recommendations about how best to approach this if you want to check their Acrylic Book PDF.

This product complies with the limits for the migration of heavy metals to children's toys according to DIN EN 71-3 and thus fulfils one of several further requirements for the safety of children's toys according to the EU "Toy Directive" (2009/48/EC). First, the painting should be allowed to dry for at least 48 hours before varnishing, in the case of thicker paint longer might be required, especially in humid conditions. If you apply a single coat and you’re getting sufficient coverage you’re probably applying it too thickly. Eyeburp, the gloss of acrylic polymer emulsions just isn’t that good compared to other finishes that you might have in mind. Varnish should be poured into another container both for thinning, if necessary, and to prevent contamination.

For spirit-based varnish the application process is simpler, you can apply it in much the same manner as above but you have more time to even out any irregularities by ‘laying off’ – light strokes with the brush tip at right angles to the direction of application – without fear of bubbles forming. Please keep all directions of strokes the same to help keep the varnish looking flat, and when varnishing and drying be sure that your workspace is at room temperature, or you may run the risk of your varnish drying slightly cloudy.In the former case you have to be careful to prevent friction which leads to the formation of bubbles which can dry inside the varnish layer and are impossible to remove. e. if you can leave it on the floor permanently) polyurethane is a definite possibility as that’s what is most frequently used on floors these days. Larger quantities of leftover product should be disposed of in the original containers in accordance with the applicable regulations.