An important point to mention is that if you do tighten it too much this can damage the rubber seal or push it past the point of creating a good seal and leaks will start. In this case you will need to take it all apart and replace the seal if you can find an exact match or replace with a new compression unit if not. How to Cut Plastic Pipes for Compression Fittings Whether you need an adaptor, a coupling, a tee or an elbow, our stainless steel compression fittings collection is suitable for connecting pipes in natural gas and LPG applications. Experience is everything for us

Waste pipes used for push fit fittings and solvent weld fittings are two entirely different sizes and one of the easiest ways to join the two is by using compression fittings As mentioned, the advantages with the shear-type cutters is that they leave no burrs so the pipe is ready to fit straight away. Assembling a Plastic Waste Compression Unit One other really invaluable use for plastic compression plumbing fittings is when you are refurbishing and trying to join old pipes to new pipes including old lead wastes (which should be replaced if you get the chance) and odd sized imperial waste plumbing pipework, they are absolutely ideal for this For those that are new to plumbing, compression fittings provide the ideal introduction as they are easy to fit and adjust

Firstly, mark the exact point on the pipe that you need to make your cut, use a thin soft pen or felt tip. Remember, when marking the cutting point, if you make your mark at the exact length you will need to cut past the marking, leaving it on the pipe as otherwise your cut will be a millimeter or so too short! Before you can actually fit a compression fitting you will most probably need to cut a section of pipe to the correct length for your needs. There are really only a couple of ways that this can be done, considering the size of the pipes (e.g. 32mm an upwards): As above, measure and mark the position on the pipe that you want to cut, mark your point with a soft pen. Screw down the cap. Take your time while doing this and keep your eye on the seal and washer making sure they do not twist and that all is flush with the main body and pipe. Screw up until it starts to go tight and then give it one final pinch to create your water tight seal

To do this, use a fine piece of sandpaper, at least 280 grit or greater or a small file and gently run it around the edges until smooth – Don’t press too hard as you will scratch the pipe and this may cause leaks. Once done, the pipe is ready to fit.Plastic Washer: Once the below screw cap is screwed up it applies pressure to the washer which in turn presses down on the rubber seal, holding it in place and ensuring it seals Squeeze the handles again and let the cutting jaw bite into the pipe. Make sure before you do this that the cut is in the correct point.

No matter what your plumbing installation project involves, our large selection of brass compression fittings will have you covered, from elbows and nuts to tank and tap connectors. The T-joint comes in a range of different sizes and fittings, both 32mm and 40mm, imperial and also reduction. Most commonly used when teeing into an existing pipe run Now comes the rubber seal. Again, make sure that the taper is pointing in the right direction so that it slots into the main body of the compression joint. Ensure that it is not twisted and that it sits flat on the body of the pipe A flexible fitting which will allow to you connect a 32 or 40mm pipe round a wide bend to another sized pipe

Compression fittings are made mostly to use with 32mm or 40mm pipe work or to provide a conversion between two different sizes e.g. joining a 32mm pipe to a 40mm pipe.