Joel’s Raven Guard force will be on display at the Leeds Warhammer store at some point in the near future. Pop in and see them! Night Lords. Aka the marines that should probably have a rule called “Actually, they know quite a bit of fear”. I decided to paint my Sternguard as Crimson Fists as I love their classic Rogue Trader era aesthetic. To this end, I kept the paint recipe simple and finished the look with a retro brown base rim. The golds are also good, and the quad there is "negro gold", "viking gold", "dwarven gold" and "elven gold". I'm afraid I don't have the equivalent GW paints to compare, but they're sort of dark gold, old gold, red gold and pale gold respectively. Finish the model off with some basing. I do all of my Night Lords with snow/winter bases. So for most of them, I paint the base with Reaper Ghost White, then I cover the base with Valhallan Blizzard texture paint. I used to use Mourn Mountain Snow for this but that stuff looked like white dirt, and the new texture paint looks much more like actual snow.

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. By popular demand, this week we’re looking at how to paint the terrifying VIII legion, the Night Lords. The Night Lords Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard, also known as the Astra Militarum, is the primary infantry force of the Imperium. They are known for their large numbers and heavy machinery, including tanks and artillery. Liberator Gold is a great choice for highlighting the armor and weapons of the Imperial Guard, as it gives them a gleaming, metallic look that perfectly fits the image of a well-equipped and well-trained military force. Gold Trim – I do my gold Trim with Retributor Armour. I used to do it with Balthasar Gold, then a few layers of Auric Armour but that took forever and came out too yellow. This new method is faster and looks better. Basically I do Retributor then hit it with a couple coats of Agrax Earthshade. The armour is my standard and much loved (possibly by me alone) gold method, it’s simple and effective. Initially the miniature was sprayed with Citadel Retributor Armour, but the pot of Retributor Armour gives a nice smooth layer too, so either works. It’s then been washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade before having Retrbutor Armour reapplied, leaving the Agrax Earthshade in the recesses. To highlight I used Citadel Liberator Gold on all the areas I think would be catching the light the most, then I did one more extreme highlight of Liberator Gold mixed with Vallejo Model Air Chrome.The copper quad is "decayed metal", "victorian brass", "old copper" and "pure copper". I find these less useful, as I usually want a brass rather than a copper effect (think polished brass instruments, or ornaments); these are definitely biased more towards a red-hued copper of different ages. If you want a copper range though, they are great. Stormhost Silver is nearly identical to Runefang Steel in color. It is very slightly brighter, but you will not notice it if you mix it into your army. It also is thinner and covers much better than Runefang. For the silvery metallics I use Citadel Leadbelcher and Model Air Chrome. You can tell the two different shades, with the MAC being the lighter metallic. They were both then washed with Citadel Nuln Oil before having the Leadbelcher and MAC reapplied. Finally, MAC was used as an extreme highlight on the areas of Leadbelcher to make the corners and angles stand out.

New paints are always exciting to me since I am primarily a painter. GW's last additions to their paint range, the Technical Paints, were a resounding success, and now they bring us Retributor Gold and Liberator Gold. Retributor is a Base paint while Liberator is a Layer paint. These are meant to coincide with the new Stormcast Eternals models, and having painted one, they work perfectly for them.I decided to create my interpretation of Aethon Shaan’s 1st Company Raven Guard. I started with the Captain himself, using a head swap from the Forge World upgrade set , which significantly changes the dynamic of the miniature. Brother Mortis is armed and ready for war! This mighty Ballistus Dreadnought joins the ranks of my Ultramarines 2nd Company to purge the enemies of mankind from afar. Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. Green: Caliban Green is a dark, muted green that pairs well with Liberator Gold as a split-complementary color combination. This pairing creates a sense of balance and harmony, while also adding a touch of nature and organic feel.

Shade the shit out of the entire model with Drakenhoff Nightshade. Really go to town on this. GW reccos Nuln Oil for this, but I feel that destroys the really nice blue you get if you use Drakenhoff. Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. To help them stand out as more elite Space Marines I added some gold, but kept it quite muted by using Liberator Gold. For cloaks and tabards I used Dark Reaper . I also couldn’t resist scattering a few beaky helms around the rest of the miniatures as they are so iconic for the Raven Guard Chapter.Vallejo Model Colour Carmine Red Base. Just do a single thin layer. This is here just to give your later reds something to grab onto. Thanks for reading, and keep your eyes peeled for part 2 in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time there’s the full Ballista crew video linked at the top of this post to keep you going. It all starts with a base coat of Zandri Dust Spray and a heavy drybrush of Morghast Bone . Following that I use Agrax Earthshade to do a recess shade before highlighting every edge I can reach with White Scar . The model is then covered with a heavily thinned layer of Iyanden Yellow Contrast applied using the biggest brush I can fit in the pot. Once dry, I apply another White Scar highlight, only hitting the forward facing edges this time, before again drenching the model in thinned Iyanden Yellow. A last highlight of White Scar, focused on the most prominent points of the armour and a third and final layer of Iyanden Yellow finishes the job, and gives a wonderfully smooth yellow. Gadge: Mantis Warriors These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & Combinations The three lightest silvers (Aluminium, Chrome and Sliver) are all the same as far as I can tell. I bought and used all three, and I just cannot see any difference.

They are useful, but I do use them far less than the main metallic quads (I bought all three sets); so though each 8 paint set is cheaper than buying them individually, it's not 50% cheaper. Depends whether you'd think you'd use the alchemy add ons as to whether you just buy the quads as single paints. Using mainly an olive green and yellow colour scheme for the squad, I opted to add an accent colour of deep red, both for the Sergeant’s helmet stripe and for personal heraldry on the powerfists. As we currently don’t make transfers for the Mantis Warriors Chapter, I had to freehand the insignia and opted for the older (easier to paint) emblem – which seems perfectly fitting for 1st Company veterans of the Badab War.In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.