Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply. Internal hub maintenance oil and SG-S700 oil. These serve a similar function in lubricating the internals of Shimano hub gears, but different designs seem to warrant tow different oils. Other IGH will require oil as well, e.g. Rohloff oil Now that the fork is full of the correct bath oil, slide the lowers far enough on to the upper tubes so that the damper rod and air spring rod come out of the lower legs. Place the appropriate Fox crush washers in to place and thread both bottom nuts on by hand. Now that we have the lower legs separated from the upper tubes, it's time to remove the old foam rings. The foam rings sit right underneath the dust wiper and are designed to catch any dirt that gets past the dust wiper. Over time the foam rings can collect a lot of crud and dry out.

There are some applications where you should only use the approved grease and using the wrong grease really will cause a problem. This includes roller brake grease. This is critical to use the exact grease specified, and unsafe to substitute anything else. Before removing the bottom nuts, make sure the bottom of your fork is raised higher than the steerer tube so that once the bottom nuts are removed, oil will not spill.Hydraulic mineral oil - this is for disc brakes, and is different from DOT fluid. Anecdotally people use mineral oil including baby oil, and it 'works'. But Shimano claim that only theirs is good and others can destroy your brakes. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/ Take this with a pinch of salt as there are bunch of hydraulic mineral oils sold specifically for bicycles and no complaints. Different hydraulic mineral oils do have different boiling points, and different viscosity.

Any carbon parts like carbon seatposts should use grease recommended by the manufacturer or for the application. MRP: We recommend cleaning your seal areas with a mild soap and water mix periodically, sooner rather than later if there is significant dirt build up. We need to make sure we have all the right tools for the job. For starters, you will need Fox 20wt Gold Fork Fluid, Fox 5wt Teflon Infused Fork Fluid, Fox 36 foam rings, and Fox crush washers. (DO NOT use the old crush washers) We offer a variety of Fox dust wiper refresh kits. Somebody said guns? Lubriplate SFL-0. It's an NLGI 0, aluminum complex grease. This would also be a satisfactory choice for the bike, but 105 provides a little better corrosion resistance. Internal hub grease. This is with calcium hydroxide 5-10%, white solid lubricants 2-3.5%, & 2.5-4.1% bentonite, other additives and mineral oil. This grease is calcium-based for wash-resistance, and temperatures are not high.Unfortunately it's not very clear which grease and additives is best, because bicycles are different from lots of other applications in that speeds are quite low, and temperatures not too high. Durability is likely to be important. MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil).

Before you put the new foam rings into the fork lowers, you will want to soak the foam rings in a small container of fork fluid. The damper side for the Grip 2 damper specifically uses Fox 5wt Teflon Infused bath oil and the air spring side uses Fox 20wt Gold bath oil. Give the foam rings a few minutes to absorb as much of the fork oil as possible. WET SEAL: Our Wet Seal also works great on Dropper Posts. If you find that your dropper post is slow to rise or won’t rise at all but has proper air pressure, Wet Seal will have that post popping up like a hen at sunrise. Similar when applying Wet Seal to your fork, clean the dropper stanchion and seal with a micro-fiber rag before applying our product. Once applied, drop and rise the post 3-4 times and clean off the remaining liquid and grime with a micro-fiber rag. Cleaning the stanchions removes any dirt and debris from the surface that the dust wiper seal keeps out of the fork with every compression. This extends the life of your dust wiper seals, minimizes damage to upper tubes, and minimizes lower leg contamination.

Make sure you orient the lowers on to the upper tubes correctly. The damper side is on the rider's right, and the air spring on the riders left side. Gently slide the upper tubes through the dust wipers without pushing the damper rod and air spring rod all the way through the bottom of the lower. That way we can add bath oil! Free hub seal grease . This is not for freehubs in general but is specifically for Shimano's Microspline seals, and for specific seals there. The datasheet gives the same basic constituents as the previous one, but it might be different. MUC-OFF: Re-apply before each ride for best results and maximum protection. BIKERUMOR: What’s the best way to clean them first? Also, some frame couplers specify special fluoro-compound grease, and it's best to follow the instructions or potentially ruin your frame from thread galling. First, read all the answers you've already received. There's a lesson to be learned, if you look closely.

Another grease-based product is carbon assembly compound, which typically is grease + silica, which adds friction to enable parts to grip with a lower torque. This is used with carbon fibre parts, which if over-torqued can fracture.

12. Slide Lower Legs Back On To Upper Tubes

MUC-OFF: Yes! You can’t beat regular cleaning of your whole bike to reduce wear and tear and use a good protectant all over your bike! We wash our bikes after every ride, little and often is better than waiting and turning it into a hellishly big job! Typically you want to use a lubricant that has a similar composition of what’s found in the bath system. Some greases really are special. But in other cases the grease doesn't really matter. Since so many companies just say to use their approved grease, it can be hard to tell apart which applications are really special and which ones don't really matter. Applying lubrication to the stanchions will attract dirt and debris, which the wiper seal will wipe away upon the next compression, creating a ring of oil and debris that will need to be cleaned before your next ride. With routine 50 hour lower leg service, the fork will provide the necessary lubrication to the stanchions to perform properly until the next service interval is reached. Routine service combined with proper cleaning and inspection can extend the life and performance of your suspension product. Before we get started, remove the fork from your bike and make sure it is nice and clean. Also, make sure you have a clean work environment that way no dirt or grime can get into your nice fork. The easiest way to service your fork is to hold the fork by either the steerer tube or the lower leg in a bike stand. Now let's get to it!