Since no-one's said that you can't just tape the external vents shut, I'm going to give this a go. Depending on the effect this has on the draft, I may try putting some insulation inside the vent sleeve to help with this. Then I can happily use the windows for my ventilation, knowing that when I want a warm room, I can achieve it and when I want ventilation and air circulation it is completely within my control. Have none of you people heard of windows? Windows are natural ventilation and have the added advantage of not using extra electricity. So far as I can tell, my 70 year old house has survived the first 69 years of its life without extractor vents, probably because its owners understood about windows. I am fully aware of the problems of humidity, I just don't need some idiotic and expensive ventilation system treating me like an idiot and making a noise in my ensuite bathroom, when it's right next to a perfectly serviceable window. If I wanted that, I'd live in a hotel. Replacing a bathroom vent, such as the one with the flaps which rattle all night. Should be a straight swap. I think this is the risk which extractor vents are designed to mitigate. I'm desperately trying not to use the phrase "nanny state" about this, but it's hard work. When heating a property with either an open fire or a solid fuel appliance there are several things that one should know.

The postage cost for the return will need to be covered by yourself (please keep the proof of postage until your return has been processed). Hi, You said it would take 15 minutes to fit, and I did it in 7. And the effects were immediate!” B.T. Cardiff. Also, you are missing the point of my question. I have not said the extractor fans themselves are especially noisy, just that the external covering vents rattle and are noisy. A relative of mine converted an old house into flats and put bathrooms in some basements. This room had the required plastic lining, with concrete shell inside, lined with plaster. For reasons too peculiar to go into, the owner of this flat refused to open her window, (there was no extractor fitted, since the conversion predated these being mandated) for SEVEN years, meaning that the room was basically sealed for that whole time. After that period the room DID become damp and the plaster developed mould. Vents are a common area of complaint when it comes to draughts and cold air leaks. But, air vents are there to ensure your appliances perform efficiently and correctly. Vents ensure fuel consuming appliances get enough oxygen and ensure toxic carbon monoxide is produced through incomplete combustion. So, air vents are pretty necessary when you’ve got fuel burning or a fire lit. But what about every other hour of the day? Howling gales don’t stop just because the fire’s off.

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Replacing underfloor air vents which will stop a draught blowing under your floor, while allowing enough air for the vital ventilation. We get a lot of customers complaining about the draught that comes through air vents. The air vent is there to provide enough oxygen for your appliances when they are burning fuel. If they don’t get enough oxygen they produce carbon monoxide which is a killer. So the air vent is pretty useful when you’ve got a fire lit. But what about all the rest of the time, when the fire isn’t lit and there’s still a howling gale blowing through? Wouldn’t it be great to have something that restricted the air flow and prevented those annoying draughts? Ta daaa! We introduce the DR21, invented by David Gattie, a stove fitter with customers putting just such a complaint to him on a regular basis.

Your all need some good external grade glue, epoxy resin or something that will remain in place in low and high temperatures. Internal Super Glue will probably fail in winter temperatures. However, while something like this will be quite easy on the downstairs vents, it will be a real problem upstairs since they are beyond the reach of my extension ladder (25ft+) and there are no nearby windows for easier access. The hole is 100mm, and yet the free air equivalent is 3400 sq mm. This is because the air vent sits on the outside of the wall, and does not reduce the size of the hole through the wall. iv. It would be harmful to burn the oxygen from a room without replacing it with fresh air from outside. According to research over recent years, childhood asthma is caused by too much ventilation, too little ventilation, too much cleaning/dusting and too little cleaning/dusting. I'd take all of it with a big pinch of salt. And I say this as someone who developed asthma as a child.

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Do you think I could tape up the vents upstairs by taking the inside cover (including fan) off, reaching through and applying tape from the inside? Most vents become a source of cold air and draughts are created as the fire draws the air from the vent. I think it is one of the most exciting developments in solid fuel installation in years, but don’t take my word for it, watch our video. We point a garden blower at a standard air vent and the DR21 a ir vent. The results speak for themselves. The kits contain items which you will need to install a DR21 air vent, but may not have readily available. They do not include the tools (e.g. drills and screwdrivers, mastic gun) you need to do the installation. They also don't include consumables such as screws or plasterboard fixings. This does affect young children and there some research that it can be one of the causes of childhood asthma."

In brief this is caused by the mechanism of combustion. Fuel only burns when given a heat source in oxygen. So, as fuel is burned, oxygen in the area surrounding the fuel source is ”used up” by the mechanism of combustion, this then needs to be replaced. The reaction then pulls more oxygen into the area to replace the ”used up” oxygen – when this ocurrs in appliances, air is pulled in via the vent to do this. So, the rate of airflow in through the vent will automatically meet the demands for the appliance, regardless of the vent style. If it’s a 100mm louvred vent then the DR21 air just slots over where the old vent cover is, and if it’s the standard plastic vent cover, even the holes are in the same place. I had thought of simply putting some tape over the vents on the outside, just to seal them shut. Since we have a pebbledash render on the walls, it seemed easier, and maybe more effective, than fitting a cowl like this: Anyway, I would like to put a stop to this rattling and also stop the constant drafts coming from them. We are unlikely to use them, but I don't necessarily want to permanently disable them. Can anyone suggest some good ideas to help with this? We offer three installation kits. These are aimed at professional installers, or at homeowners who are confident of their DIY skills.When heating a property with either an open fire or a solid fuel appliance there are several things that one should know: The DR21 acts as a like for like swap – you fit it onto the outside wall in place of the existing vent. There’s no fancy mechanism or any moving parts that could get damaged. Just an incredibly clever design that causes the air to move in a zig zag pattern, slowing the rate of air flow down when the demand for oxygen is low, instantly reducing those terribly cold air leaks. All I'm asking is whether there is a safe and simple method of stopping the cheap bits of plastic that pass for external covers on these things from rattling like a banshee whenever a squirrel farts in the woods to the side of my house.