Finish Line Teflon Synthetic Grease

Product Information

Because it isn’t designed for prolonged water exposure, because it’s not designed for what you’re trying to make it claim, it’s NOT on the data sheets. There is no “ISO E” universal standard that all data sheets have so you’re looking for a statement that very few, if any, manufacturers claim.

People’s reactions to this particular article seem to range from taking it as a gospel, to taking it as blasphemy. Still – it is no more, and no less than: “what I have learned (through theory and practice) so far”. And, like all the other articles, it gets updated as new knowledge is acquired. Mobil 1 worked well enough for about fifteen years, but is very stiff for most bike bearings. Zero corrosion but may be bearings were stainless anyhow; it displayed very little separation unlike other greases. Grease used for (and marketed as) boat trailer wheel bearing lubrication. Bearings that need to be submerged into sea water when boats are put into the sea. Very good corrosion and water washout resistance. Use temperature range is similar to ordinary calcium greases (if it is complex, then like complex calcium greases). Relatively low price (similar to calcium, or complex calcium greases). Can’t really say I’ve noticed the colour to have any relation to greases quality. Didn’t pay much attention to it though. Thinking, retrospectively, some of the more expensive (synthetic based) lithium complex greases I’ve used were of red colour, with a relatively clear texture (“clear” as coca cola texture vs muddy water texture). But that could be just marketing. The thing with data and science is that it actually needs to be relevant to the conversation and support what you’re arguing. You can’t just grab the first thing that pops up in a google search and say “SEE!!” that doesn’t make you scientific, data-based, or objective.you wrote something above. That nlgi 1 doesn’t hold bearings well enough. Are you referring to loose bearings? because in newer years there are no loose bearings anymore and the cage their in hold themin place. I’ve recommended 3 different greases, with an explanation of every recommendation. Don’t like it? Find what you do. Same as with graphite additive greases (5.3.), but without any negative impact on bicycle bearings. So lithium, or calcium greases with MoS 2won’t be bad for bearings, just needlessly expensive.

Criterion 7 – Low price. Out of two greases that bothsatisfy previously noted criteria, it makes sense to choose the cheaper one. It makes no sense for lubrication, in a medium term, to cost more than replacement of a bearing. My main “objections” to aluminium and polyurea greases are price and compatibility. Put plainly: for traffic safety, “the best” option is a tank, while an optimal recommendation most people would be well served with is just a plain old Volvo car.”

Having used scores of lubes over fifty years, I still fall for the hype now and then. Random observations: First major bike rebuild, circa 1965, saw me using some ancient Texaco canned pumpkin-colored grease my father had forever. It was sort of NGLI 1.5-2, smelled strong, and worked – yet, upon the next overhaul a year or two later, found rusty bearings still coated in brown wet grease. Those bearings need to cope with the load of under 200 kilograms(usually). The load is dynamic, so that impactscan drastically change the volume. However, due to the low weight of a bicycle, only human strengthof it’s rider, as well as the fact that abicyclecarries a maximum of two people (specially designed tandems), the forces that occur and bearing loads are relatively small compared to similar in cars, motorcycles, or industrial machinery. Your argument here is the hub grease will not only leak out of the sealed hub, cross over the pawls, pass then through the freehub seals in sufficient quantity to contaminate the freehub grease to render it ineffective before environmental contaminants would require you to service the hub anyway? That’s one desperate argument and Shimano’s grease is calcium based which is compatible with calcium and poly by your own charts. It’s simply not a concern to be worried about as by the time ANY hub grease crosses that many barriers in sufficient quantity environmental contaminations would of already done much more damage. Loads, even with MTB jumps, are not the problem with bicycle bearings – their number one nemesis is the dirt intrusion (even more than water washout, except for very wet/salty conditions). NLGI 1 hardness will do the job just fine. General recommendation would be an ordinary lithium (soap based) grease. Available, cheap, with characteristics that satisfy all the criteria for this use. It hardly makes sense using anything else. Even those satisfying ISO water resistance standard with H level are not too expensive.

Zero data to show the actual properties of the actual greases to washout or corrosion inhibitance even though it is listed as a requirement.

Perfect all-purpose solution for bikes - Premium Grease from Finish Line

Bicycle bearings, whether on wheels, cranks, or fork, are usually ball bearings, i.e. they consist of balls, trapped between two races. These bearings are almost never made to be easily re-lubricated from the outside, without disassembling them, so frequent lubrication would take a lot of time. Bicycle hubs are not sealed. They are “sealed”. It is a valid argument. If they were really sealed, water washout attributes would be irrelevant. Bike bearings have covers that both leak and allow dirt and water intrusion. So it’s more of a “dust protection” that doesn’t seal, advertised as a seal. I respect your opinion, but disagree. The answer would be the same as for previous paragraph. For a particular grease performance – look at the standards it complies with. For general comparison, look at the given tables, or research more. In my city, temperatures rarely go below -20, mostly stay up to -10 in the coldest of months, but as far as salt protection goes (our road companies don’t spare on the salt as soon as there’s any snow), Lithium soap based grease seems to work fine – I also ride all year long.