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Posted 20 hours ago

Stephenson Melt And Pour Soap Base Clear SLS FREE - 1Kg

£11£22.00Clearance
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Simple food colours can easily be used, as can liquid soap colours and other water-soluble liquid colour bases. Obviously the depth of a particular colour is dependent upon how much is used. Don't be tempted to over-colour your soaps, especially if using clear soap bases, as the transparency of the finished soap will be affected if too much colour is used, plus, coloured lather in use is off-putting. Fragrance can be added either using essential oils or simple fragrance oils, which are available in a huge range of tempting fragrances these days. Again, strength of fragrance is dependent upon the amount added. For a meaningful fragrance, around 20ml fragrance per Kilo of soap (2%) is sufficient, so a few drops per single bar is fine. As a guide, a maximum of 3% fragrance addition is generally advised. Irridescent powders or glitters may float or sink to the bottom of a mould depending on their make-up, so a suspending base may be helpful if you want to avoid this. Also, glitters and sheens can become lost if too much is added, so be sparing for best results. By now most of you know I’m a soap maker. I have a small business that makes more than 400 bars a month and it’s still growing. I sell a lot of soap at the tailgate markets in the summer and I always have people asking for a glycerin soap base. It’s still a common myth that glycerin soap is milder and better for you. That can be true in some cases, but when you hand-craft a good cold process bar of soap, it contains just about as much glycerin.

Step 3– You don’t have to let it cool down. Pour the lye solution into your melted oils/glycerin and blend to trace.When cool, remove from the mold. Wrap soap in plastic wrap or wax paper. You must wrap it right away or it may collect moisture from the air and bead “sweat” on the surface. Removing individual soaps from moulds is perfectly simple. Be sure to leave the soap to cool completely. If using a suitable mass-produced mould, which will have a shiny surface, the soap will release with slight pressure. More complex or larger moulds can require some force. To help remove a soap from a large or complicated mould, ensure it has fully set and put it in the freezer until quite cold throughout (don't actually freeze it), When you remove it from the freezer the change in temperature on the surface of the soap will help it release from the mould. This method can be especially useful when making large loafs or slabs, which are to be cut by weight or into bar sizes later. In the shower or bath, wet your hands and rub your soap in them to create a lather. Wash your hands first, then repeat the process and apply soap to your whole body using the soap directly and your hands. You may also wash your face with it. Rinse hands and body abundantly. Also wash your soap from lather before placing it in your soap dish or bag saver. Oils – You want to choose oils that are high in stearic acid and that have a low amount of unsaponifiables that can cloud your clear soap. You want to choose oils that are not yellow or green tinted…Harriet uses tallow, coconut, castor and rice bran. Because you do add lots of solvents (some with water), you want to use a high amount of hard oils to create a hard bar. I would shoot for 60%+ of tallow, lard, stearic acid or palm oil. I tried a few different blends. The more solvents I used, the more stearic acid/coconut oil I used. Step 4– Weigh out the stearic acid + about 10 extra grams. Melt using a double boiler on the stove.

Figure out how much soap base you need. An average bar of soap is 4 ounces and the mold will tell you how many ounces it holds. Use a bit more as some will remain on the melting container and spoon. Step 2– Weigh the lye and distilled water into two separate containers. Add the lye to the water while stirring to create a solution. Be sure to mix in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves. Okay, so if you’ve been in the soap making groups on Facebook lately, you’ve seen all of the transparent soaps that makers have been posting! Quite impressive! I’ve made transparent soap before, but nothing as clear as what we’ve been seeing lately. Warning! You do use alcohol in this process so be aware of open flames or anything that might ignite the fumes. I went so far as to blow out the gas starters on my stove since I was making this in my kitchen. I opened the patio door so that I had fresh air at all times. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher on hand (a bit dramatic, but you should have one in your kitchen anyways).The secret for making glycerin soap is the addition of solvents to the oils-lye water mixture. And the secret to make a crystal-clear soap base at home is to use stearic acid with the oils and the right temperatures. It’s very easy to turn your soap base yellowish (the sugar syrup will go brown easily with high temperature), so make sure you don’t overheat the soap batter.

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