Horstmann - CentaurPlus C27 - Series 2 - Two Channel 7 Day Programmer

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Override: 1 hour boost (Hot Water only), 1 hour extension to On period (Hot Water only), instant advance (Central Heating only) Now im after some help getting the hot water element up and running with the new nest to completely replace the Horstman C27. And this is what we have remaining for our horstman C27 which is controlling only the hot water now. -so the neutral and live on the left will come out will go straight into the new nest heatlink. Just wondering if somone could advise where the grey and white cable currently in number 1 and the brown one in number 3 will go within the hot water part of the heat link. We have bought a new Nest Thermostat to replace our current Horstmann C27 which runs our Central heating and Hot Water on a timed system, we have a Netaheat Profile 303 Boiler.

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CentaurPlus. 7 day control with 3 on/offs per day, advance, over-ride and boost settings and a 6 terminal wall plate.So I have finally got round to doing this today and now having finally removed the C27, I only have wires on 3 & 4, Looks like I just connect these to B? But I believe I need a loop from the Second L to A If that's all correct then what do I need to connect the hot water and central heating commons on the nest heat link. I'm reading about jumpers from the live?

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The red cable from terminal 4 of the programmer will no longer be required and should be removed from the programmer and made safe (unless for some reason you want the programmer to still have some control over the heating which the following does not allow for). note it says Centaur Plus is volt free, so it seems the centaur plus is same as Hive single channel and standard one is same as Hive duel channel, so I would be hunting on the actual device to see if there is a diagram. Your picture clearly shows a brown sleeve on the blue wire going to 3 so clearly a line not neutral.

This is the Horstmann CentaurPlus C27, a two channel programmer which gives independent control over hot water and heating with up to 3 ON/OFF settings for each day of the week. It also has a 1 hour manual boost button for the hot water and an advance button for the central heating. As you have figured, the old room thermostat can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the heating wiring 'open circuit' and it would not operate, the integrity of the circuit needs to be maintained. As not all thermostats are the same, some working out will be required. With most leccy flow through boiler systems Rob; the HW is just heated by the immersion heaters, to confirm this do you have two immersion heaters?

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Having a few issues wireing in the Nest Heatlink - mainly trying to work otu what the current Common and Call-For-Heat connections are - have been looking at http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/86..._guide_CentaurPlus_C21-C27_installer_web1.pdf but havent managed to work it out my self , we also have one thermostat on the system which will be replaced if that helps. The C27 CentaurPlus two channel heating programmer offers 7 day programming at an affordable price. The Boiler is a Grant Vortex Pro External Combi21e, as the name suggests the boiler is outside in a casing so it's a bit more difficult to trace the wiring. The C27 is a two channel programmer, but if your HW is heated independly of the boiler, then it should just be a single channel, controling the CH only. Have just moved into a flat with a trianco Aztec electric boiler paired with a Horstmann Centaurplus C27 programmer. Apart from a big white tank and (supposedly) knowing how to set the timer, that's as far as my knowledge goes with this system. My problem as far as I know is the timer. When I switch on the hw the water doesn't heat but the central heating gets hot!?. The ch light on the timer doesn't come on but the central heating defiantly gets hot. Same if I press the boost button, I hear the system start an the central heating comes on again, without the water getting hot. If I press the ch button the heating comes on fine. In short both the hw and ch buttons only turn on the ch?!

The wiring is just to complicated for me to work out. Could anyone help with what wires go where on the heat link? Im pretty sure its as simple as connecting the live and earth from the C27 to both BDR91s, then C27 1&2 go to the BDR91 for heat conections B&C, C27 3&4 to the BDR91 for hot water B&C and a link L to A on both BDRs You can now disconnect all of the wires going to the old thermostat and remove the cable and thermostat.

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lt;p>This is the Horstmann CentaurPlus C27, a two channel programmer which gives independent control over hot water and heating with up to 3 ON/OFF settings for each day of the week. It also has a 1 hour manual boost button for the hot water and an advance button for the central heating.</p> Once you have transferred the wires from the C27 to the Heat link, then the Heat link (L) terminal also needs linking to the two 'common' terminals (2) and (5) lt;li>Override: 1 hour boost (Hot Water only), 1 hour extension to On period (Hot Water only), instant advance (Central Heating only)</li>Hi.. Thanks for the reply. The C27 thats in place at the minute is working to the extent where I can turn the heating and HW on and off, Just not set timers, (screen is dead) Many modern thermostats have a dead zone. If the temperature deviates less than 4°C from the set temperature, the system will not heat or cool. This so called dead zone of the thermostat prevents the system from turning on and off too often, saving energy. The honeywell system should then take care of the thermostat, however, there is a room thermostat that needs to be removed, and that part Im not sure of. I suppose I could set it on full and let the evohome do the job, but Id rather remove. Any tips? or anything I havent got right? This seems to be the other end where the programmer is (the white cable with the blue wire with yellow tape around it) There is a separate immersion switch I can use to heat the water, but this can become expensive I I forget to turn it off.